July 16, 2014

Protecting Livestock From Predation With Electric Fences

Electric fences are an important tool for protecting livestock in Alberta. Such fences have been used in the province to protect livestock from predators for more than two decades. 

Predators such as coyotes, wolves, bears and domestic dogs are shocked when they try to penetrate an electric fence. For the most part, electric fences have been used to protect pastured sheep; however, these fences do have other applications. They can be used around birthing yards to protect newborn calves or lambs, or they can serve to protect poultry and farmed deer. 

A study in the mid 1970s showed a 90 per cent reduction in sheep predation losses on farms with electrified pasture fences. This evaluation of electric fences to protect sheep from coyote predation was conducted by Alberta Agriculture, Food and Rural Development. Other studies have confirmed the effectiveness of electric fences to prevent sheep predation. 

Electric fences are easily adapted to most livestock operations. These fences are relatively easy to maintain and are economical to build. However, electric fences require routine inspection and maintenance to ensure proper operation and protection capability. Also, snow and frozen ground in winter can greatly reduce the effectiveness of electric fences for predation control. 

Electric Fence Designs

An effective electric fence for predator control can be constructed with either a multiple of single strand wires or a combination of wire mesh and single strand wires. A mesh-wire fence is more expensive to build than a fence made from single strand wire. However, an electrified mesh-wire fence presents a greater physical barrier to predators and requires less maintenance and fewer electrified wires than a fence using only single-strand wires. 

Nine-wire fence
An electric fence made with 9 single strands of 12.5 gauge, high-tensile smooth wire and spaced as shown in Figure 1 provides an effective barrier to predators. The overall height of this fence design is 1.37 m. Wires are alternating, charged (+) and grounded (-), beginning with the bottom wire as a charged wire. The top wire should be charged when cattle or horses are either enclosed or share a fence to prevent them from damaging the upper portions of the fence. 

Figure 1. Nine-wire fence, viewed from inside the fence .
Figure 1. Nine-wire fence, viewed from inside of the fence .

Mesh-wire fence
Galvanized, high-tensile mesh wire should be used for predator control. This wire is more versatile and longer-lasting and can be stretched tighter than standard farm mesh wire. The high-tensile mesh wire is reasonably priced and available from fencing suppliers in various heights. Galvanized mesh at least 1.2 m high with predator-proof spacings (smaller spacings on the bottom section of the mesh than at the top section) is recommended. 

To build a new fence, place the mesh wire on the inside of the pasture posts. Pull the mesh taut, position the bottom of the mesh tight to the ground and staple the mesh securely to the posts. The fence wire must be tight to the ground to reduce the chances of a coyote digging under. 

If a fence is not taut, the wires will sag and make a space easier for coyotes to penetrate. Single strand, 12.5 gauge high-tensile wires can be placed 15 cm or less apart above the mesh to increase the height of the fence to 137 cm or more. Figure 2 shows the recommended mesh-wire fence configuration, which is also electrified. 

Figure 2.  An electrified, high tensile mesh-wire fence, viewed from outside the enclosure .
Figure 2An electrified, high tensile mesh-wire fence, viewed from outside the enclosure .

An existing sheep fence made from mesh and barbed wire can be electrified. The fence must be in good condition, and the wire must be free of rust, undamaged and taut. The spacing in the mesh wire must be no larger than 15 cm by 15 cm. Coyotes, foxes and small domestic dogs may crawl through spaces larger than 15 cm. Fence posts must be sturdy and preferably tall enough to make the fence at least 137 cm tall. If the posts are not tall enough to support the top wires, add extensions to increase post height to at least 137 cm. 

Considering the requirements for an effective electric fence for predator control, it is often impractical to modify an existing mesh-wire sheep fence. 

Predators can penetrate a fence by digging under, jumping between the wires, crawling through holes in the mesh or jumping over the top of the fence. To stop predators from digging under the fence, place a charged 12.5 gauge high-tensile wire 10 - 15 cm above ground level and 10 - 20 cm out from the mesh. 

If the fence posts are 10 cm or more in diameter and the mesh is attached to the inside of the posts, insulators and the charged wire can be attached directly to the outside of the posts. If the fence posts are less than 10 cm in diameter or the mesh is on the outside of the posts, offset brackets will be needed. Brackets can be built or purchased. 

Damaged mesh or mesh with openings larger than 15 cm by 15 cm may allow coyotes, foxes and small domestic dogs to crawl through the fence. Repair or replace damaged mesh. Add one or more strands of high-tensile smooth wire, spaced 15 cm apart, above the mesh to increase the total height of the fence to at least 137 cm. This is the minimum height needed to prevent coyotes from jumping the fence. Make sure the mesh and single wires are taut. If horses or cattle are enclosed by the fence, electrify the top wire to keep them from pushing on the wires. 

How An Electric Fence Works

For electricity to flow in a system such as an electric fence, there must be a complete and uninterrupted (closed) circuit. The electrical current must travel from its source (fence energizer) through the circuit (fence) and back to the source. This flow only occurs when a charged wire of the fence becomes grounded. 

Under normal operating conditions, an electric fence functions as an incomplete (open) circuit with repeating pulses of electricity generated by the energizer sent through the charged wires of the fence. When an animal touches a charged wire, it grounds the fence, creating a closed circuit. An electrical pulse travels through the animal and back to the energizer, delivering a shock to the animal. 

Other objects and materials including vegetation, sticks, fallen trees and non-insulated posts in contact with charged wires can also create a partial or total closed circuit. This partial or closed circuit can result in a reduced electrical charge (voltage) and an inadequate shock to repel predators that contact charged wires of the fence. Fences should be checked and maintained regularly to address this potential problem. 

A shock from an electric fence that uses charged and grounded wires can be delivered in either of the following ways; see Figure 3:

    • A predator receives the maximum shock when it touches a charged wire and a grounded wire at the same time. Electricity in the charged wire travels through the predator into the grounded wire and back to the energizer. 

      The conductivity (how easily electricity flows through a circuit) is very high. This conductivity forms the basis for recommending that all non-charged wires on an electric fence be attached to the ground rods of the energizer.
    • When a predator touches a charged wire only, electricity travels through it into the soil, through the soil to the nearest ground rod and attached grounded wires to the energizer. Conductivity through soil, depending on soil type and moisture, is poor compared to wire. Therefore, the shock a predator receives in this way can be much less intense than that received from contacting both a charged and grounded wire at the same time.
The closer a predator is to a ground rod when shocked, the more intense the shock will be. It is therefore very important to ground non-charged wires to ground rods at regular intervals of the fence. 

Figure 3. The ways current can flow when a predator touches an electric wire.
Figure 3. The ways current can flow when a predator touches an electric wire.

Fence Line Selection and Preparation

Careful planning and proper fence line preparation are important first steps in the construction of an effective fence for predator control. 

Select the most level ground to run the fence. Do not cross creeks, sloughs, ravines or other unstable and difficult areas if at all possible. Keep the fence line as straight as possible. Clear trees, shrubs and debris from the fence line. Make the fence line wide enough both to prevent trees from falling on the fence and to permit a vehicle to be driven beside it for fence construction, inspection and maintenance. 

Coyotes usually penetrate mesh or nine-wire fences by digging or crawling under the bottom wire. So, it is extremely important to level the fence line properly. The fence line must be even enough to run a charged wire within 7.5 to 10 cm of the ground. The distance from the bottom wire to ground level may vary a good deal if fence lines are not levelled. An uneven fence line may permit coyotes to get under the wire. If the charged wire touches the soil, the voltage may be inadequate to keep coyotes out. 

After completion of the fence, the fence line should be re-seeded to grass to prevent erosion and weed growth. Select a low-growing grass species that will minimize the risk of vegetation grounding the bottom charged wire. Common broad-leaved weeds that cause grounding problems can be controlled with herbicides. 

July 16, 2014

Building Your Electric Fence

In 1938, the first electric fence was developed in New Zealand by Gallagher. Since that time, electric fencing systems have made farm and ranch life easier. Today, both permanent and portable electric fencing products are used all over the world.

Basics of Electric Fencing

Electric fencing is ideal for grazing or pasture management by containing animals on a selected area of pasture or crop. It also may be used to protect gardens and landscapes from animal damage.

Permanent electric fencing is economical, easy to install and easy to maintain. Temporary electric fencing is an effective temporary barrier for short-term animal control and rotational grazing.

Electric Fencing is...

  • Safe: Animals remember the short, sharp but safe shock and develop respect for the fence.
  • Easy to install: An electric fence takes less than half the time to build compared to traditional fence systems.
  • Durable: A non-electrified fence experiences constant wear and tear under stock pressure. Because your animals learn to avoid an electrified fence, your fence will last longer and remain in good condition.
  • Economical: Electric fences cost less than 50% of traditional non-electric fences.

How does an Electric Fence work?

Electric current (AMPS) only flows when a circuit is completed between a positive and negative 
terminal.

 

 

In this diagram the current cannot flow from the positive terminal to the negative terminal because the switch is open.

 

 

 

In this second diagram, the switch is now closed, allowing the current to flow from the positive terminal through the light bulb (lighting the bulb) to the negative terminal.

 

 

An electric fence circuit is made on a larger scale. The energizer fence terminal (positive) is connected to the insulated fence wires, and the energizer earth terminal (negative) is connected to galvanized metal stakes driven into the ground.

The same 'circuit completion' (as in the second diagram) is necessary before the animal gets a shock. An animal standing on the ground and touching the electrified wires will complete the circuit like the closed switch in the second diagram above.

Electric fence circuit
 

For example, a bird sitting on the wire will not receive a shock. It is not touching the ground so the circuit is not completed.  A person wearing insulated footwear will only receive a small shock because all the current cannot pass through the insulated soles.

Choosing right electric fencer

Dry, sandy or pumice soil is a poor conductor of electric current, so it is a good idea to add an ground (negative) wire into the fence. The animal must touch both a hot wire and ground wire to feel an effective shock.


 

Choosing the Right Energizer/Fence Charger

Once you have decided what type of electric fence you want for your property, you will need an energizer also known as a fence charger to power it.  The correct energizer size for your property is determined by the type of animal to be fenced, distance of fence to be powered and the number of wires in the fence.

There are two types of energizers:

  • Mains powered - these are energizer units which are plugged into a mains power supply.
  • Battery/Solar powered - these are energizer units which can be left out in your paddock and require a battery to run them. Two batteries can be rotated on a regular basis or a solar panel can be an effective means of continuously charging your battery.

Steps to Good Grounding

Grounding (a.k.a. earthing) is perhaps the most neglected component of many fence systems. We recommend three ground rods, 6’ deep and spaced 10’ apart are the minimum recommendation. Never attach copper to steel. Electrolysis can occur and result in corrosion which weakens shocking power. Use galvanized ground wire and grounding rods to avoid this problem.

Consider that most energizers use galvanized or stainless steel terminals – not copper. Think of your ground system as an antenna that gathers electricity in order to deliver the shock to the animal. Modern satellite receivers can tune in to more television channels than the “rabbit ear” antennas of the past. A hose clamp holding a piece of copper wire to a rusty t-post has been the weakest link of many electric fence systems.

- See more at: http://www.gallagherusa.com/electric-fencing/electricfence101.aspx#sthash.znQ0H6eX.dpuf

July 15, 2014

Flerds: Sheep and Cattle Grazing Together for Predator Control and Pasture Management

By   /   June 23, 2014  /   6 Comments

Multi-species grazing isn’t just about diversifying your operation and making good use of your pastures. It can also be a way to protect small ruminants from predation!

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Flerd:  

1.  A contraction of flock and herd.

2.  A mixed-species group of animals that consistently stays together under free-range conditions.

Losing animals to coyotes is no longer just a western problem.  These two maps from the National Wildlife Federation show how coyotes have expanded their range.  No matter where you live, even in urban areas, coyotes might be looking to snack on your small ruminant, or your cat or dog.

Losing animals to coyotes is no longer just a western problem. These two maps from the National Wildlife Federation show how coyotes have expanded their range. No matter where you live, even in urban areas, coyotes might be looking to snack on your small ruminant, or your cat or dog.

When the Jornada Experimental Range (JER) outside of Las Cruces, New Mexico expanded their range livestock research program to include sheep alongside cattle, they ran into a problem that anyone raising small ruminants has encountered:  predators, mostly coyotes, began picking animals off.  In fact, they lost 66% of the herd, dropping from 96 to 33 sheep in just one year.  As Dean Anderson wrote in his 1998 paper in the Journal of Arid Land Studies, this catapulted them into predator control research.  They ended up with a two-pronged approach that all but eliminated predation by coyotes.  The solution?  They got guard dogs to stay with the herd, and they taught the sheep to stay with the cows. The researchers started with two observations.  First, free-ranging sheep don’t normally stay with cattle in the same pasture.  In fact they interacted less than 6% of the time.  Second, they had seen how aggressive cattle could be towards dogs, especially when they felt threatened.  They figured that this aggression towards threatening dogs would translate to coyotes as well, and that if the sheep behaved as part of the cow herd, they’d have more protection.  And with that, they began to figure out the logistics for bonding sheep, goats and cattle.

Here's a 1987 JER picture showing bonding in progress.  The sheep do not bond to an individual cow but to the species in general.

Here’s a 1987 JER picture showing bonding in progress. The sheep do not bond to an individual cow but to the species in general.

Pen Bonding

They started by penning young lambs with cattle for 3o days.  All were fed together, though there was a creep to allow the lambs to escape to a safe place if necessary.  That’s about all it takes, for sheep to bond to cattle.  Further research has revealed that a good bond can be achieved in just 14 days, making it easier to get started flerding.

As all good researchers do, Dean Anderson and the folks at JER did a test to see if they were getting the results they hoped for.  It involved sending a trained herding dog to round up cattle and sheep while they filmed what happened.  The dog had a hard time with the control group because the sheep refused to move with the cattle, and ran off by themselves.  The job was much easier for the dog when it came to trying to move the flerd.  The sheep moved with the cattle, generally traveling in the midst of them, and the cattle did their job of occasionally turning on the dog to protect themselves and the sheep by extension.  It’s easy to see from Dean Anderson’s 1987 video of the test that flerds provide a lot of protection to sheep and goats.


Here’s the link for tablet folks.

The biggest issue/expense in creating a flerd is feeding the animals while they’re bonding.  Fortunately, you don’t have to train every member of your flock. By taking advantage of the flocking instinct of your small ruminants you can provide protection to unbounded animals.  Bonded animals, will stick with the cattle, and  those without a bond to cattle will stick with their flock mates.  Jornada researchers found that 12 bonded sheep controlled the movements of 12 non-bonded sheep.  You can see this at work in Dean Anderson’s video below.

Here’s the link for tablet folks.

At the Jornada Experimental Range, researchers use this herd behavior to introduce new lambs to the flerd.  Ewes are removed from the range to give birth in a corral where they remain for about 2 months while the lambs grow and gain strength.  Then the ewes and lambs go back on the range with their cattle flerd.  Though the lambs spend about 3 months with the cattle as part of the flerd, the bonding process doesn’t really seem to begin for them until after weaning.  It’s possible that they are simply too focuses on their bond with their mothers.  After weaning, as they continue to follow their mothers and the flerd, the bond begins to form.  After 217 days with the flerd, their bond with cattle is as strong as pen-bonded lambs that spent 34 days with heifers before joining the herd.

Flerd Benefits

Photo courtesy of Jornada Experimental Range

Photo courtesy of Jornada Experimental Range

There are management and pasture benefits to be gained by running sheep and cattle together.  Sheep-proof fences on the range are no longer required because the sheep will stay with the cattle.  Any fencing that will keep cattle in a particular pasture will keep the sheep with them, as long as their are no cattle in the adjacent pasture.  Sheep aren’t bonded to a particular cow or herd, they are bonded to all cattle, so will move to other cattle readily given the opportunity.  It’s also easier to find your small ruminants on large ranges, in dense brush or in fog or snow because the size of the cows makes the group easier to see.  Finally, cattle tend to range over a larger area when foraging than sheep and other small ruminants.  Sheep in flerds stick with the cattle, distributing foraging over a larger area than possible with just a flock.

It’s also important to note that flerding replaced other ways of trying to prevent coyotes from eating sheep.  Before flerding Anderson says “we relied on gunning, trapping, snares, electrified fences and guarding dogs.”  Post-flerding, they only used Turkish Akbash guard dogs.

Ready to Give Flerds a Shot?  Here Are Some Tips

1) Use sheep and goat breeds that exhibit flocking tendencies.  Researchers found that white face sheep breeds may bond better than black face breeds based on their flocking tendencies.  They also found that spanish goats could bond, but that over time, they became less bonded and wandered away from the herd more.

2) Younger animals bond better than older animals.  Researchers have done this with 1 day old lambs, and with yearling ewes with good results.  Jornada researchers were successful with lambs 45, 62, and 90 days old as well as with 18 month old ewes.

3) Any age docile cattle will do, but keep in mind that heifers eat less than a full  grown cow and will reduce the costs of the bonding process.  If you find a cow abusing lambs, remove it immediately because there’s no way to make lambs bond with their abusers.

4) Bond strength is measured by how far sheep stray from the cattle.  The stronger the bond, the  shorter the distance between sheep and cattle.  Bonds can be created in as little as 14 days.

5) Pens should be in quiet areas with little activity. The size of your pen will determine the ratio of cattle to sheep for the training. In smaller pens (52 square feet per animal), Jornado researchers used one cow per 3 lambs, and in larger pens, (188 square feet per animal) they used one cow per lamb.

6) Provide a creep area for the small ruminants as a place to escape if threatened, and to provide supplemental feed for growing lambs and kids.  Feed hay on either side of the creep for the first 24 to 72 hours so animals can see each other, yet lambs have some degree of safety as they get to know the larger cattle.

7) Consider putting bells on some cattle during training.  Lambs will learn that the sound is associated with where they ought to be, and help orient them in larger pastures.

Read More About It

Here are published papers on this subject:

Pro-active Livestock Management — Capitalizing on Animal Behavior
Dean Anderson, Journal of Arid Land Studies, 1998

Flocks and Herds or Flerds – It’s Your Choice
Dean Anderson, Grassroots: Newsletter of the Grassland Society of Southern Africa, June 2004, Vol 4 No 2

Pen confinement of yearling ewes with cows or heifers for 14 days to produce bonded sheep
E.L. Fredrickson, D.M. Anderson, R.E. Estell, K.M. Havstad, W.L. Shupe, M.D. Remmenga, Small Ruminant Research 40 (2001) 291-297

- See more at: http://onpasture.com/2014/06/23/flerds-sheep-and-cattle-grazing-together-for-pasture-management-and-predator-protection/#sthash.FVz15l3I.ojqkDiqo.dpuf

July 15, 2014

We are now accepting applications for beginning women farmers

Now Accepting Applications
It's application time for our Beginning Farmers & Ranchers: Women in the Northeast 2014-2015 Season
http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?f=001ttmlW1rCki4sEEDHSkcWQVptWBgBfjiOUqtgNLc8EilEv2xz9urE7aBoDvEOWbG0YCm0ZqPtmSBNEew8VhIBvAemUFUBxQQRbeACqu0xDrPvYIMFoCpMLxZ6rYQDZWbE5RQQeEHihfy-os4scvCv53i7bbQB9cW4w6ENiuH5bCLhaSWyIx7fjygz_-efi5crK5y3SZGxKpOOdN-IlxQNCTynq_CQC3dIDRPwCGC54HoW5Z73SerTcRrcG0PtoKXVfvCDB5re-U2mfL_8owb_WGHV5ab4cvayp-PmhG8PaT1-09YttMR8hF-4HarLUM5QFyGTsJaNwx3w_A7n59hx0Hs1Jj-hJL-Tfw1YS2Q3ojg=&c=X2O3bCHr3Ie4mJPJQ6HPyuKD7zhzMwX4ZokSCP6M2ery3Y5r4NCaOg==&ch=l_JsUiKfOei30QVBPu25DU5QohEVByBdidUdLFZE-toz49i37mHFGA==
We are now accepting applications for beginning women farmers in the following Northeast states.
  • New York
  • Connecticut
  • New Hampshire
  • Vermont
  • Massachusetts
  • Maine
Be sure to apply early as we just closed the application window for our Texas program and we've receive 2 application requests for each available slot.
Get the deadlines and find out how to apply...

July 15, 2014

What is Holistic Management?

It’s a Whole Approach that Benefits You and the Land

Holistic Management® is a Whole Farm/Ranch Planning System that helps farmers, ranchers and land stewards better manage agricultural resources in order to reapsustainable environmental, economic, and social benefits. This “triple bottom line” of benefits can be achieved by maximizing the management of current resources. Whether land is used for ranching, food production or public land conservation, its health can be improved and its productivity greatly increased without large infusions of cash, equipment or technology. Holistic Management is a dynamic system, and in the truest sense, holistic — it can be evolved to incorporate new sustainable farming/ranching management and production techniques. (i.e. permaculture, organic methods, loss stress animal handling, wildlife management, keyline plow, etc. Advances in management techniques can be incorporated as well (i.e. marketing, business, and financial planning). Over 40 million acres of land worldwide currently benefit from Holistic Management practices. It’s a reaffirmation of our credo: People count, healthy land is essential, and money matters.

Discover the Four Important Cornerstones of Holistic Management®

Holistic Management practices allow land managers to guide the relationships between plants, soil, livestock, people, and water in ways that mimic nature, while addressing the financial aspects of these unique elements. The four cornerstones of managing holistically are financial planninggrazing planningland planning and biological monitoring.

Will it Work for Me and are there Risks?

Every farm and ranch is unique and Holistic Management enables you to deal with the uniqueness. While the principles are universal, the process requires you to manage for your situation using Holistic Management techniques tailored to your region, your land, your operation. Holistic Management minimizes your risk by providing testing and monitoring your progress – early – minimizing risk as well as guiding your success. When you manage holistically, you know how to manage your land and your finances to maximize your investment.

See Real-world Results

Read case studies from practitioners of Holistic Management and see how others have reaped the benefits.

Ted Talk

Allan Savory, recently gave a TED talk that describes some of the benefits of Holistic Planned Grazing and how this tool can help address some of the critical environmental issues we face at this time.

Be sure to check out our resources page for more information on how to practice Holistic Management.

July 13, 2014

Protecting an Electric Fencer Charger / Energizer from Lightning


With all energizer installations, install adequate lightning protection
before constructing the fence.
1. Use a good surge protector on the utility power side of the energizer to
protect it against power fluctuations.Most energizers are damaged
from the power side, not the fence side.
2. Install a lightning choke in the lead-out cable. You can purchase these
or build them (Drawings 2 and 3).
3. Install a lightning arrestor in the lead-out cable that is connected to
the powered fence. Then connect the arrestor to the lightning grounding
system.
4. Install the lightning protection grounding system at least 65 feet from
the energizer grounding system. The lightning protection grounding
system needs to be a more efficient system than the grounding system
for the energizer. Therefore, use at least one more ground rod in the
lightning protection grounding system than is used in the energizer
grounding system. Select sites for lightning protection grounding
systems with care so that a lightning strike does not go to ground in
the middle of a herd of cattle or where people are congregated.
5. It also helps to install ground rods and arrestors at permanent wet
spots along lengthy fences because wet soil provides an excellent
ground.
6. With multi-wire fences, be sure to connect all of the wires to the
lightning arrestors. The top wire is the first line of defense against
lightning damage.

July 13, 2014

Selecting an Electric Fence Charger - Energizer - Controller - Fencer

The energizer is the heart of any electric-fence
system, so select it carefully. A good unit will provide
years of service if it is properly installed and
maintained. Price should not be the determining
factor.Many operators have started with farmstore
specials that ended up crashing.
The cost to purchase two or three
cheap models is as much or more
than the cost of purchasing
a good one
initially.
Purchase a lowimpedance
energizer
with a minimum 5,000-volt output. It should produce
35-65 pulses per minute with each pulse lasting
not more than 0.0003 seconds. Each pulse also
should have an intensity of less than 300 mAmps.
Seek advice about energizers from experienced
graziers, from sales people and from NRCS personnel.
NRCS employees cannot recommend specific
brands, but they can offer general advice. One
of the best methods is to look at several operations
similar to yours, and find out what those graziers
are using and if they are happy with their units.
Consider the type of livestock to be controlled.
For example, containing sheep, goats or horses may
require special considerations for
charger size and fence construction
to ensure that the animals receive
adequate shocks when they contact
electric fences.
Purchase a larger unit (energizer)
than you think you need
because graziers usually expand
their systems as they realize the benefits of modern
electric fencing. Also increase the size of the
energizer if you anticipate a high weed load near
the fence.


All energizers should come with manuals that
explain installation and operation. Study the manual
carefully. 

July 12, 2014

How to Install Temporary Electric Fence for Cattle

  • Temporary electric fences are great to use when you want to graze cattle in an area that isn't fenced off by some sort of permanent fence, like steel panels or by a board fence. An electric fence is also an excellent tool to use for rotational grazing within a much larger pasture, creating paddocks that allow a herd of cattle to graze a certain amount of pasture space within a defined period of time.

Steps

  • Mark out the area of fencing you will need in the field and/or on a map of your place. Base your calculations and estimates on the topography and area of land you wish to have your cattle grazing on.
  • If you are wishing to install a temporary electric fence in a way where you can practice rotational grazing in a pasture, you will need to put posts in areas where you can both stabilize the fence and provide a point of fence-movement. You can also choose to have one or two fencelines as a more permanent electric fence and one or two corner posts as your baseline for the rest of the more temporary fence.
  • You will need to calculate the amount of wire needed, depending on whether you want to have it as a single-strand or a double or even triple-strand electric fence. Also calculate for the number of posts you will need, remembering that electric posts should be spaced 10 to 12 feet apart.
  • Buy your supplies from a store like valley farm supply who sells electric fence supplies.
  • Choosing the type and power of your electric fence charger is important. Don't get one that is too weak (like those used for horses), or one that doesn't carry the charge a far enough distance. For cattle, the best charger is one that carries the charge for over 18 to 25 miles. It will go up to 60,000 Volts, which is hot enough for any bovine to notice! You can choose to buy a fencer that is battery charged (you will have to replace the car or truck battery every few months or so), or a powerful solar powered fencer. Gallagher is a good electric fencing company that often has good quality materials for your electric fence; spending your money on a good electric fencer will often save on the labour of repairing broken wire!
  • Clear the area of brush, grass, deadfall and trees. This will minimize the risk of shorting out the fence, thus significantly reducing the charge.
  • Install fence posts. You will need to install the more permanent posts first (i.e., treated wood posts) before you decide to put in the step-in temporary posts.
    • Make a corner brace (if necessary, as you may be attaching your electric fence to an existing fence line) by pounding in three posts in a right-angle form: one post with two posts 90 degrees adjacent to that post, pointing in the desired direction that the fence will be going. The posts should be 6 feet apart, or as wide a part as the top post (acting as a brace) will be.
    • Mark the area on the post that needs to be trimmed before adding the brace. With the chain saw, cut a grove into the top of each post, going down then out, making sure each part that is cut out in each faces each other.
    • Put in the top brace by pounding in the top brace with a mallet, working each end until it is down snug in the grooves. Repeat for the other post adjacent to the one just completed
    • With high-tensile or telephone wire, make 5 or 6 diagonal loops from the top of the outside post to the bottom of the main corner post. Take a stout stick (one that is around 3 feet long) and twist the wire until you can't twist anymore (not until the wires break),locking the stick against the side of the post that keeps it from loosening the wire.
    • Pound in the permanent posts spaced 100 feet apart, put in at almost exactly 18 inches deep. It's best to make a mark on the base of each post to get a more uniform set of posts being installed.
      • If you wish to make the fence so that it runs in a straight line, take a roll of baling twine, tie the twine to one corner post and run the twine from that corner all the way down to the other corner that is on the same side.
    • You could ignore the other steps above and get right to putting in the temporary posts. These posts don't require a post pounder, since they have a part at the bottom of the posts that allow you to put your foot on it, and stand on it, using your weight to put in the posts. Make sure they are relatively straight. Space the posts approximately 10 to 12 feet apart.
  • Install the wire. Depending on how many strands you wish to have for your fence, it is usually best to start from the top down. The top wire should be at nose-level with your cows (which is around 32 to 36 inches off the ground). Often the step-in posts that you bought are made so that the wire does run nose-level to a cow, making it less of a hassle to install it. Using an insulator, insert a nail through the part of the insulator that allows the passage of a nail, and pound that to the wood post. If you have installed wood posts, repeat for every post, remembering the number of wires you are planning to install.
    • If you are only using a single-wire fence, then the insulators only need to be installed exactly level with those step in posts, or around 32 to 36 inches off the ground. All three wires (if it's a three-wire fence) should be spaced around 12 inches from each other. A two-wire fence should have both wires spaced around 18 inches apart.
  • Wrap the wire in the hooks the first insulator at least 10 times before stringing the rest along each insulator and hooking them in to each temporary post.Pull the wire so that it is not too taut, but not loose either. Wrap the wire at the terminal insulator on the other side of the line until either enough wire has been wrapped in it, or enough so that you can move down to the bottom insulator and continue with your bottom wires. To attach another strand of electric fence, use a reef (or thief) knot to secure both strands together.
    • Fiberglass posts have the kind of hooks where the wire simply snaps in.
    • Pig-tail posts, however, require a different way of putting in the wire. Pull the wire down so that it is just below the loop, then insert it into the loop. Then position the wire so that it goes over the hook portion of the loop. Repeat for all other pig-tail posts.
    • A gate is useful, especially if you have large machinery to put through to mow or hay a paddock. Allow 20 feet of length between the corner post to the next post. Install eye-screws into the post at their predetermined height mentioned above. Attach insulated handles to the electric wire, using a double or triple knot to do so, and tying the wire so that it doesn't stick out when a person grabs the handles. The wire should also be tied up enough so that the wire stretches taut (not so that it reaches breaking point though), enough that you can use your strength to hook the handle to the eye-screws.
  • Install the electric fencer and ground rod. The round rod should be pounded in so that 99% of it is in the ground, with only a couple inches poking up, enough to put the ground rod clamp on. The ground rod should be placed no more than 15 feet from the electric charger, with high tensile or telephone wire running from the ground rod to the charger. The ground rod or lead-out wire should not be touching any electric wires.
  • Connect the lead-out wire and electric wires to the fence charger.
    • If the charger requires a car battery, then attach the charger to the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.
    • If you are using a solar powered fence charger, it may be best to locate the charger in an area of partial shade. This is so that you don't cook the charger too quickly in full sunlight, but it still gets enough of the sun's energy and light to maintain a powerful charge on the fence.
  • Turn on the fencer, and test the voltage of the wire. Test at the following locations: near the fencer, mid-way down the fence line, and at the furthest part of the fence. If the power at each point is the same, then it is working properly. If not, you may have to find the source of the problem, especially if it's shorting out somewhere. Sometimes if a single strand of electric wire is touching something metal like the wire on the barbed wire fence, or even a tree twig, these need to be fixed and/or moved so that it doesn't interfere with the electric current.
  • Gather up your equipment and spare wire, posts, etc.
  • Let the animals out and watch them for a bit, especially if they don't know what an electric fence is. Keep an eye on the animals for an hour or two to see how they react to the fence. When you see one or more animals touch the fence with their noses and jump back with a sudden bawl or snort, and don't see any animals that are testing the fence nor have attempted to get through because of the sudden shock they got from the wire, then you know the fence is doing its job.
  • It's best to check on the wire once every couple days, or however many times you need to switch the animals from one paddock to another.

July 12, 2014

Tips to remember when building electric fence

 

  • Wear thick gloves when handling electric wire. Cow-hide gloves work better than pig-hide gloves do, as you get less of a shock through them when handling electric wire.
  • There's no preference as to whether tape or wire works best. Tape tends to be more noticeable by the animals and tends to send more of a charge than wire, though wire carries just as much of a shock as tape does.
  • The step-in posts are great because they can be pulled up and relocated in response to your herd's grazing pressures, or just simply to re-size a paddock.
  • Ground rods are necessary, but sometimes conditions can be so dry that the ground rod doesn't reach far enough to moister ground. Try slowly pouring a pail of water over the ground rod to help temporarily increase the charge during drought periods
    • You may have to invest in a longer ground-rod, especially if you live in an area where drought is not all that uncommon. They can come in longer lengths than 6 or 8 feet, though you may have to ask around to find any.
  • Every time you have to splice a broken wire, it is wise to turn off the charger
  • Also wear good work boots, not sandals or sneakers or even rubber boots, in order to get less of a charge running through you. Good boots will act as an insulator, reducing the electricity that runs from your hand down to the ground.
  • If you are having problems with your animals not noticing the fence, or if you are having issues with wildlife ruining your fence, then hang pie-plates or strips of white cloth or plastic bags from the wire in between each post. These are much more noticeable than a simple wire is, and will work in deterring wildlife from wrecking your electric fence.
  • Use of knots is very helpful in proper installment of this kind of fence.

July 12, 2014

Beef: An Alternative Approach to Grass-Fed Beef Production in the Northeast

By Daniel Hudson and Joe Emenheiser


Most grass-fed beef producers in the northeastern U.S. are also in the cow-calf business. Why is it that we hear so much about the increasing demand for grass-fed and local beef, yet so many of these producers struggle mightily with a lack of profitability? Basically, it seems to boil down to two facts:

1. Winter is long up here.

2. Brood cows eat a lot every day, particularly in the winter. Most beef producers in the Northeast must produce and/or purchase enough hay to feed the animals for 200 days per year or more.

Here are other reasons producers are frustrated with this "typical" system:

  • Truly finishing an animal without grain takes a long time. It's not uncommon for animals to be well over 24 months of age before the desired weight and degree of marbling is reached.
  • Land is scarce, and much of it must be devoted to producing hay to feed brood cows through long winters.
  • Managing multiple groups of animals requires more time and facilities.

So why do we do this to ourselves? No doubt there are many reasons. Most producers clearly enjoy the feeling of accomplishment that comes along with completing the cycle from calving to marketing. Others are really into genetics - breeding just the right type of animal. Some people simply enjoy the way of life, and they have land and the other resources necessary to raise cattle, so they do. Having cows and calves on the farm feels good; it meshes nicely with our psyche.

There's nothing inherently wrong with any of the above reasons for having cattle. The problem that slowly but surely overtakes many beef producers in Northern Tier states is financial loss. The brood cow eats nearly 30 pounds of hay per day, and depending on the type of hay feeder, she can easily waste an additional 20 percent. Between consumption and waste, a 1,200-pound cow will often use more than 3.6 tons of hay over the course of a 200-day hay-feeding season.

Considering all the expenses in the enterprise budget, it costs about $1,470 to produce an 800-pound feeder calf, which equates to about $1.80 per pound on a live weight basis. While an individual may argue with particular lines included in the budget, we believe that these costs are an accurate reflection of what a typical grass-fed beef producer experiences.

There's nothing wrong with raising a calf at that cost, as long as you make up for it when you sell it. The problem is that many farmers don't. Every farmer should have some idea of the net return they need to get per animal in order to make the operation worth their while. They should also be tracking their progress toward that end.

Capitalizing on our strengths

We grow beautiful grass and legume forages in Vermont and much of New England, pastures on which feeder-sized animals will finish more easily than many places in the U.S. Achieving proper finish on a grass-fed animal is a high-value activity that we can do well in the Northeast. Managing a cow-calf operation certainly has value, but doing it in a cost-efficient manner requires resources that we do not have, namely a very long grazing season. The value that pastures in the Northeast have for cow-calf production is more than offset by the staggering expense of keeping the brood cow through the long winters.

Consider the following illustration: For an animal born on the farm, if everything goes well, the total cost of producing a finished 1,200-pound grass-fed animal is about $2,100, not including labor and management charges. When selling whole animals, halves and quarters, producers usually sell on a hot carcass weight (HCW) basis. If the HCW is average, it will be about 60 percent of the live weight: 1,200 (pounds) x 0.60 = 720 pounds.

Given these assumptions, producers need to charge over $3 per pound HCW (not including slaughter and wrapping charges) just to recover their investment and pay themselves about $100 per animal. While some farmers are charging much more than $3 per pound HCW, many farmers are not. So what? The purpose here is not simply to point out that making a profit in grass-fed beef production in the Northeast is difficult, but to demonstrate the need for more profitable production models.

The alternative model we will discuss is often disliked because it involves selling most of the brood cows to which we have become so attached (they have names). Feeder-sized animals (700 to 900 pounds) can often be purchased for significantly less than it would cost to produce them. With the hungry brood cow gone and many of the purchased feeder steers being finished and sold before or partway through the winter, nearly twice as many animals can be finished per acre, and the amount of stored feed needed each year can be significantly reduced.

The idea that feeder-sized beef animals can be purchased at a reasonable cost from within and outside of the northeastern U.S. is not news to most producers. The concept that it might actually be a good substitute for the status quo might be new to some. If feeders are not available locally, they can be purchased from areas within a 12-hour truck drive. With a delivery charge, that will probably be $50 per animal or less if they are purchased in 50,000-pound loads.

While commodity prices (including feeder steers and heifers) are near all-time highs at present, this approach will usually be a less costly option than raising an animal of an equivalent size from birth in the Northeast. If this is such a good idea, why do so many grass-fed beef producers in the Northeast own brood cows instead of shipping in feeders? In next month's column, we will discuss common objections to this alternative system.

Daniel Hudson is an agronomist with University of Vermont Extension. Joe Emenheiser is a livestock specialist with University of Vermont Extension.

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