September 14, 2014

A Great Grazing Systems Planning Guide

Click here to download this great resource.

Click here to download this great resource.

Pictures and simple tables.  That’s what I like in a book, especially if they illustrate what the author is trying to explain in a way cuts to the chase.  If you like that too, you’ll really appreciate this Grazing Systems Planning Guide by Kevin Blanchet, Howard Moeching, and Jodi DeJong-Hughes of University of Minnesota Extension.  Here are some examples: Are you wondering what you’re getting yourself into if you switch from continuous grazing to something with more management?  Here you go… pictures and a table of the advantages and disadvantages laid out quickly and simply.

GrazingTypeAdvantagesDisadvantages

A paddock layout isn’t an easy thing to draw up.  It’s complicated by where your water source is, what forages are in the different paddocks, and how much time they need to recover after being grazed.  If all that leaves  you scratching your head or thinking of just chucking the whole idea of management-intensive rotational grazing, check out this guide.  It comes with the formulas you need for figuring out how much forage you need, how much forage you might expect from different species, and what their beginning and ending heights should be.

ForageRequirementsandHeights

There are even easy to understand formulas that you can use to estimate how much time your livestock can stay in each pasture so that when grazing season arrives, you can do more than guess.

NumberofAnimalsPaddockCanSupport

This handbook has a lot to recommend it, including the clear, to the point language the authors use to help you get started.  It’s only 32 pages long (plus some appendices with more pictures and tables) yet it covers the topic in enough detail to make sure you can get going, collect information about your successes and challenges along the way, and then know what questions you might ask if you’re looking into something in greater depth.

September 14, 2014

Managing Grazing to Improve Stream Corridors Part II

In Part I of this series, we looked at a variety of ways to create paddocks so that we could water livestock from streams while at the same time managing them to improve stream corridors.  But in some cases, using streams as a water source can lead to damage, or can prevent livestock from grazing paddocks well.  A simple solution can be placing a water tank in the streamside paddock at some distance from the stream. This solution coincides with research showing that livestock will water from the tank more often than from the stream, especially if direct access to the stream is difficult.  In addition, most livestock would prefer to drink from still water and prefer warmer water to the cold water from spring-fed streams.

Getting Water to the Tank

Livestock Operated Pumps

Livestock operated pumps are many times referred to as “pasture pumps” or “nose pumps.” These pumps are actuated by the livestock pushing thepump arm with their  noses to pump the water from the source. The typical source is a pool of water in the stream. The inlet to the pump is suspended in the water to prevent it from sucking in mud. A one-way check valve is installed at the inlet so that the water in the pipeline feeding the pump does not have a way to return to the stream, thus keeping the pump primed.

These pumps work quite well, but keep the following in mind:

• They can handle approximately 30 cows per pump, so you may need more than one available to each paddock if your herd is larger than that.

• They are portable. It is a good idea to leave the inlets in place and move the pump to other established inlets to save time in setting them up.

• You must prime the pump initially for the livestock.

• Small animals, such as calves or sheep, will not be able to operate the pump. In cow/calf operations, a small pan is sometimes installed under the pump to catch overflow for the calves.

• The pump is limited to a distance of 150 feet from the water source. It will lift water about 26 feet, but only if placed close to the source of water. It is more difficult to operate as it has to lift water higher.

• It requires no electricity to operate.

(Here’s an additional On Pasture article on nose pumps.)

Sling Pumps

Sling pump operating in stream.

Sling pump operating in stream.

Sling pumps float in a stream and the movement of the current on the blades causes the blades to spin. Th e pump picks up water from the stream and moves it through internal tubes to the pump outlet through a hose to a watering facility. Th ese pumps come in various sizes. Th e smallest one can pump 550 to 830 gallons per day depending upon the velocity of the stream.

Keep the following items in mind if considering this pump:

• The pump takes a fair-sized stream to operate in. If the pump touches the side or bottom of the channel it will quit pumping. The smallest pump on the market takes a stream that is at least one foot deep with adequate velocity.

• The pump must be anchored well to keep it in place.

• These pumps are subject to curious passers-by if located on a stream used for fishing or canoeing.

• They can be easily disrupted and damaged by high water flows.

• The water tank that it pumps to must have an overfl ow so excess water can be removed from the area to prevent formation of mudholes. There is no way to put a system on the pump to stop flows when the tank is full.

Solar Pumps

One type of solar pumping system.  This one pumps whenever the sun shines on the solar panel. It is set up in a paddock adjacent to the one with the livestock to avoid livestock damage to the solar panel. It pumps to a tank in the paddock with the livestock.

One type of solar pumping system. This one pumps whenever the sun shines on the solar panel. It is set up in a paddock adjacent to the one with the livestock to avoid livestock damage to the solar panel. It pumps to a tank in the paddock with the livestock.

Solar pumps come in a variety of confi gurations. One common type is directly connected to a solar panel. It operates all the time when the sun is shining. Another type is actually a battery operated pump connected so that the solar panels charge the batteries. Th is type can be easily regulated to turn on and off as water use dictates.

Important considerations for solar pumps include:

• They may be expensive, although the cost varies considerably depending on the basic design.

• They require a three day water supply in reserve unless battery powered.

• They can draw water from open water sources or wells.

• They can be used to power a pressurized system to push water for long distances.

Engine Powered Pumps

Engine powered pumps are capable of pumping large volumes of water for long distances and more than 100 feet of elevation. The cost is generally reasonable.

Important considerations for engine powered pumps include:

• You must protect them from flood waters.

• The machine pumps water until it is shut down or it runs out of fuel. Some operators know about how long they want the pump to run and put a small amount of gasoline in the tank and let it pump until it runs out of fuel. Some overflow of the tank may occur and should be directed away from the tank.

In all cases with watering systems that pump from flowing streams, it is important to flood-proof the installation as much as possible. Many of the options described above will suffer serious damage during floods. All systems require some maintenance. They cannot be put into place and expected to operate without any attention.

The positive aspect of these systems is that they will provide water in locations where electricity is not available or where water cannot be pumped or hauled. In this respect, they are well worth considering.

Livestock Watering System Layout

The placement of tanks is restricted, to a large degree, by the kind of pump chosen and the source of water. Pumps can draw water for only relatively short distances, but some can push the water for very long distances.Below is an example of water tank placement in paddocks.

Water tank placement

When considering tank placement, major drawbacks to having livestock travel long distances to water, even in travel lanes, is that they tend to deposit a significant amount of their manure in the lane that leads to and from the watering facility, and that they tend to lounge in the area of the watering facility. These issues defeat two major advantages of managed rotational grazing systems: keeping the livestock on the desired paddock so that they consume forages, and spreading the fertility (in the form of feces and urine) through the entire pasture rather than at lounging areas and watering points.

- See more at: http://onpasture.com/2014/09/08/managing-grazing-to-improve-stream-corridors-part-ii/#sthash.qB3Eu3pr.dpuf

September 08, 2014

Eight Ways to Beat the Summer Pasture Slump

Major symptoms of drought-stressed plants are slow orstunted growth, yellow-brown leaf color, and sometimes curled grass leaves or wilted legume stems.
This will negatively affect plant growth and ultimately animal performance, resulting in economic loss. Here are several ways to beat summer slump for forages and pastures.

1. Plan ahead. Nobody knows exactly what kind of summer weather we will have but producers should prepare for the worst scenario from hot and dry weather conditions.


2. Leave 3 to 4 inches residual. Close grazing in early spring leaving a 2-inch residual helps pastures prepare for summer slump by encouraging grasses to tiller and thickening the stand. As the summer slump approaches, leave more residues (approximately 3 to 4 inches).


3. Stretch grazing rotations. In spring, pasture paddocks are rotated more frequently (every 20 days) due to fast plant growth. However, hot and dry summer conditions result in slower forage
growth. Therefore, paddock rotations should be stretched to every 35 to 40 days. This will give each paddock more time to recover and allow for more residues to cover the soil.


4. Graze hay fields as needed. During the summer slump period, grazers can bring other hay fields into the pasture system if they start to run out of pasture.


5. Consider warm-season annuals or perennials. Whencool-season forages are in a summer slump, warm- season annuals (sorghum-sudangrass or millets) and
perennials (switchgrass) were still able to grow.


6. Watch your fertilizer. Fertilizing pasture with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium at green-up and after first and second grazing cycles prior to dry conditions will help it survive a drought
better than poorly fertilized pasture by having healthy stands and roots.


7. Restore drought-damaged pasture. Do not graze too early or overgraze drought-damaged plants too soon. If pasture is grazed soon after the drought is over, there won’t be enough plant materials left for photosynthesis.


8. Extend the grazing season. Last thing to consider is how to replace lost summer forage yield due to dry weather. Consider a fall annual forage crop like brassicas (forage rape, turnip, or kale) or small grain forage to extend the grazing season and reduce the need for supplemental feeding of harvested forage.

August 31, 2014

Electric fences are now being used to ward off bears

Electric fences are now being used to ward off bears in Lincoln County – and for Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks’ bear management specialist Kim Annis,  the fences are an effective way to prevent conflicts with people.

The fences have already been installed at two Libby homes, Annis said.

Annis said electric fencing is one of her primary tools in resolving bear conflicts in the area because they are simple and effective. Residents living in bear country can use fencing by participating in a loan program that allows for the use of a temporary electric fence for the spring, summer or fall seasons. Prior bear conflicts are not necessary to obtain a fence, as the goal is prevention not correction. 

“We work for the residents and the bears,” Annis said. “We don’t want to chase conflicts around as they happen, but prevent them before they do. Electric fencing does work and it can work for more situations than people may be aware of.” 

The loan program may be a temporary source of prevention; however, through the efforts of the Fish, Wildlife & Parks and Defenders of Wildlife, a non-profit organization, a long-term solution is available. Defenders of Wildlife will reimburse 50 percent of costs associated with electric fencing used to protect bear attractants, with a limit of $500. The organization has helped more than 100 residents with fences in the past four years.

Libby resident, Joel Chandler, had a fence installed by Annis three weeks ago. Chandler doesn’t have fully enclosed indoor location to store his trash, so Annis loaned and installed a 50-foot electrified net fence and energizer for bear prevention. 

“The fence works great,” Chandler said. “It went from a constant problem to no problem at all.” 

While more people are becoming aware of the electric fencing program, the reason for the program is perhaps the most important preventative measure.  

“Bears are one-time learners,” Annis said. “All it takes is for them to get into a person’s trash, one time, and they know they can get it again. It is like learning your ABC’s, once you know it, you know it.” 

With bears learning and adapting to easily accessible food sources, such as trash and fruit trees, the level of conflict rises. As bears continually find food sources near residences, they move closer to the homes and create potentially dangerous situations. Bears that constantly appear near residences are often euthanized, which leaves the issue unresolved as other bears will be attracted to the same food sources. 

“Getting rid of the bears is not the solution, it’s a band aid,” Annis said. “Another bear will find the trash and start the same process over again. The only way to keep bears wild is to prevent this situation in the first place.” 

Fruit trees, gardens, garbage containers, dog kennels, chicken coops, compost piles and storage sheds are all typical bear attractants.  Some of these attractants, such as trees and livestock cannot be moved to prevent bears from accessing them, hence the need for electric fencing.  Fencing can be created and set up in numerous ways that make it usable for almost any area. 

Erin Edge, a Defenders of Wildlife representative, wrote about the possibility of peace between humans and bears in a commentary published in the Western News earlier this summer.  

“With a little effort it is possible for both bears and people to live together on this land,” Edge said. “Electric fencing allows bears to move through western Montana without coming into conflict and keeps people and their property safe.”

Every situation is handled differently when Annis is called to assess potential or present bear conflicts. However, the goal of bear prevention conflict techniques remains the same - to protect both bears and humans. 

August 30, 2014

Key Electric Fence Components


Electric Fence Charger. Sometimes also called an energizer or fencer, the charger needs to be powerful enough to deliver a definite jolt when your horse touches it, even when its current is reduced by vegetation touching the fence line or (as sometimes happens) by moist, dewy early-morning conditions.

Ignore chargers whose power is rated by miles; look instead for one rated by joules, a measure of the oomph with which the charger is pulsing its thousands of volts of current through the fence once every second. One joule is a minimum rating for fencing that encloses up to five acres, but I always recommend getting the most powerful charger you can afford. A higher joule rating doesn't mean the fence's jolt--which can't injure horses or other animals--will be harder or more painful, but that it will be more consistent.

The difference in cost will be insignificant compared to the value of your horses and your peace of mind; expect to pay $100 to $120 for a good one-joule charger that plugs into an outlet in the barn or elsewhere; six-joule chargers now sell for less than $200, a small premium for peace of mind. (Worried about your electric bill? Fence chargers use negligible amounts of power, whatever their rating.) I recommend solar-powered chargers--about three times as expensive as the plug-in type--only for paddocks where 110-volt power is unavailable; as well as delivering relatively low power for their cost, they're susceptible to failure.

It's possible to run insulated cable up to 1/4 mile from a charger to the fence without significant power loss. Install the charger under cover (except for solar-powered chargers, of course), where you can check it easily during each day's routine. Most chargers have a light that flashes with the electric pulse when they're plugged in and functioning.

Ground system. This is a series of three 6-foot-long, galvanized-steel rods pounded into the ground 10 feet apart and connected by insulated cable (see below) to the "ground" terminal on the fence charger. (In areas where soil is very dry, more than three rods may be needed.) Assuming that you have a good charger, the ground system is the key to your electric fence's effectiveness. If your horse touches the fence, he feels a jolt only when the brief pulse of electric current that goes through his body and into the ground is picked up by the ground system and returned to the fence charger, completing the circuit. Be sure to use a ground rod clamp to attach the ground wire as tightly as possible to the rod, rather than just wrapping it around.

Insulated cable. The cable that carries the electric pulse from the charger to the fence needs to be specifically for electric fence, with insulation rated for up to 20,000 volts (most fence chargers emit from 5000 to 10,000 volts)--the same degree of insulation as on automobile spark plugs. By using cable designed for electric fence, you avoid the electricity leakage that results when you connect the charger to the fence with heavy-duty household electric cable, whose insulation is rated for only 600 volts.

When attaching the cable to the fence itself, use a connector clamp rather than just wrapping the cable wire around the fence; cable connected by wrapping comes loose more easily or loses power due to oxidation or corrosion buildup. All fence manufacturers sell a connector clamp designed to work optimally with their product. You'll also need the cable to carry the electric fence current from one side of a gate to the other: Connect all strands of the fence to the cable on the side of the gate nearest the charger.

My preference is to then run the cable above the gate via an archway high enough to safely admit horses and paddock-maintenance equipment, but most people prefer to run the cable underground. That's fine as long as the cable is encased in waterproof plastic tubing, plugged at each end with silicone caulking and buried in an 18-inch-deep trench to protect it from damage by hooves and equipment. On the far side of the gate, use connector clamps to attach all strands of the fence to the cable.

Cut-off switch(es). Save lots of extra steps by installing a weatherproof knife-type cut-off switch (sold in the electric fence section of farm stores) between the insulated cable and its attachment to the fence, enabling you to turn the fence off without going back to the barn to unplug the charger. I also like to install cut-off switches on both sides of a gate--multiple cut-off switches allow you to isolate sections of the fence for easier trouble-shooting.

The fence itself. Visibility is key to an electric fence's effectiveness and safety. Materials such as 1.5- or 2-inch poly tape, braid, rope or coated HT wire make the fence easy for your horse to see and avoid. (Thinner fence materials such as poly wire or 1/2-inch poly tape are suitable for temporary installations or as a "hot wire" to keep horses away from solid fence; uncoated electrified wire--although dangerous when used as a fence material on its own--can also be used to protect solid fence.)

Choose a product with a long warranty (for instance, some fence materials have a guaranteed lifetime of 20 years) and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for number and spacing of strands. A good general rule of thumb is four to five strands of fence, 4 to 4.5 feet high, for perimeter fences and three to four strands for interior fences. Space the top two or three strands no more than 12 to 14 inches apart and the lower strands 18 inches apart, with the lowest strand 18 inches from the ground to minimize interference by grass and weeds.

Insulators. The type of insulator you need (to hold the fence material on the post that supports it, while preventing the fence from contacting any surface that will cause current to leak) is determined by your choice of electric fence; most manufacturers market insulators specifically suited to their fence products. In general, braid, rope, and coated wire are installed on insulators that allow the fence to slide through. To help prevent chafe and wear on a tape fence, however, insulators need to be the type that clamps and immobilizes the tape (especially important in windy areas), and to be installed vertically on the fence post. Avoid cheap "generic" insulators (often made of brittle plastic), which only last a few years.

August 29, 2014

Testing, Testing... Why It's Important

When your electric fence is built, monitoring its voltage regularly--I recommend daily--is a basic management practice, just like checking water buckets. Use a digital voltmeter that tells you exactly how many volts of current are on the fence. (How many volts are enough? Four thousand to 5,000--remember, there's no way this jolt of current can hurt your horse, but it needs to be definite enough for him to remember it and want to avoid it.) Your first check of your new fence's voltage gives you a baseline so that future checks can alert you to voltage drops that signal problems. Depending on the strength of your charger, it will emit 6000 to 10,000 volts when nothing is connected to it. After you've hooked it to your fence, check the voltage at the furthest point from the charger. Some drop in voltage--1500 to 2000--is normal. A more than 2000-volt drop means either your charger is underpowered for the fence, vegetation or something else is "loading" the fence (touching it, causing voltage to leak away), there's a short-circuit somewhere in the system--or a combination of these. If the base voltage on your newly built fence is 4000 or better and everything's working fine, watch on subsequent checks for an overall voltage drop of 1500 or more. (It's normal for voltage to be 500-1000 lower in the morning when moisture on the fence, posts, and nearby vegetation can cause temporary current leakage.) Such a significant decrease means it's time to check for problems and correct them before your horse discovers the fence no longer packs a punch; in fact, many horses can sense when the fence is or isn't functioning. 

August 29, 2014

Electric Fence Maintenance Checklist


  • Look for and remove sources of "load." Mow or trim under bottom strand to prevent grass and weeds from touching the fence; watch for fallen limbs or other objects on the fence or caught in insulators. (Tips: Listen for the rhythmic snap that indicates a voltage leak; follow your ears to find the source. Drag a long stick on the ground beneath the bottom strand as you walk the fence-line; it may knock away an interfering object you don't even see.)

  • Check insulators. A broken insulator can allow the fence strand to touch the post--not an immediate problem with a nonconductive wood post, but if you're using steel T-posts a broken insulator can cause the fence to go dead when the strand touches the metal.

  • Check connections. Ground-rod wires can get knocked or kicked away. Wires attaching the cable to the fence may come loose.

  • Check the charger. A spider's web built between terminals can cause it to spark.

  • Check insulated cable. Look for places where the cable may be abraded, for instance where it passes through a hole cut in metal barn siding.

  • Check fence strands: Look for frayed spots in poly tape--if metal fibers in the weave become separated, tape can't conduct current.
  • August 28, 2014

    Electric fence is for tough guys!

    It takes a tough man to play with electric fence

    August 28, 2014

    Good pasture management leads to increased milk and meat production, as animals are grazing fresh, high energy, palatable pasture.

     

    Pasture management is dependent on three basic areas of animal control:

    1. Control of the area to be grazed.
    2. Control of the number of animals to be grazed.
    3. Control of the grazing time.

    These three controls are fundamental to any pasture management programme.

    Control of the area to be grazed
    Control of a grazing area is achieved economically with Gallagher power fence systems, using either permanent or portable fences. Fencing allows specific areas of pasture to be grazed, while ensuring other pasture areas rest and re-grow.

    When a pasture is rested, the plants " tiller " or produce leafy shoots from the base of the plant. Tillering produces high quality, palatable pasture. To encourage these shoots to grow, regular but controlled grazing is required.

    Control of the number of animal numbers to be grazed
    This control factor determines the stocking density of the grazing area. The stocking density is the number of animals in a given grazing area for a stated point of time. Stocking density determines how efficiently the available pasture is grazed.

    Control of the grazing time 
    Control of the grazing time, determines the annual production of the pasture area. It is important that the plants are not grazed down too low, as the leaves are required for the process of photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is vital for the plant itself to grow and feed its own root system. Good root reserves are needed to provide healthy tillering and leaf growth.

    Pasture that is maintained at the tillering stage is young, lush, green pasture with high protein and high energy levels.

    Farm animals have a very acute sense of taste and smell and will only eat pasture 4-6 weeks after dung and urine have been deposited.

    Subdivision with high stocking density of pasture ensures animal manure is spread more evenly over the whole grazing area.

    To achieve quality pasture rotational/controlled grazing is the preferred grazing method. Rotational/controlled grazing involves grazing paddocks in rotation by shifting the power fence regularly to allow the stock an allocated ration. The stock are contained by both a front and a back fence. The back fence protects the recently-grazed area to allow it to recover so it can be grazed again at a later stage.

    Set stocking can also be used to successfully manage pastures, however, care must be taken to achieve the right balance between the number of animals contained in a grazing area and the length of grazing time. The grazing area or paddocks generally vary in size. Set stocking should be done for each, individual paddock. Large paddocks, can be fenced off into smaller more manageable grazing areas, with a portable power fence.

    August 28, 2014

    Kids understand electric fence

    Kids understand electric fence
    x

    x