July 26, 2015

High Tensile Electric Fencing for Sheep

High tensile electric fencing is a sturdy, highly conductive style of perimeter fence which carries a strong enough charge to effectively contain sheep and deter predators when well maintained. Typically galvanized steel, each run of high tensile electric fencing will have a tensioner (one style pictured at left) for each strand as a means of easily maintaining this fence (tightening it periodically as the fence naturally sags over time). Generally this style of fence is installed for sheep with either 5 or 7 strands depending upon the installation environment, your budget and the threat of predators. The advantage of installing high tensile fencing as a perimeter fence around a large pasture is that it allows shepherds to easily strip their pasture into smaller paddocks to use for effective rotational grazing, increasing the health of their pasture.
Potential Drawbacks to Using High Tensile Electric Fencing


Overall I'm a huge proponent of this style of fencing and if I was investing in sheep for the long-haul I would certainly choose this style as one of the core elements of my perimeter fencing. While this style of fencing can be challenging to work with and time-consuming to set-up and build initially, it's easy to maintain and lasts a long time. Growing up, we installed this for our cattle and sheep on my family farm and having Gallagher high tensile fencing surrounding our large pastures allowed us to easily use plastic mesh temporary fencing and polywire strip fencing (both of these are covered in-depth lower on this page) to sub-divide our pastures and maintain the health of our grasslands through proper rotational grazing. Installation certainly won't happen overnight ... expect to invest some time to set up this style of fencing. It's worth doing it right to make it last.


Cost of a High Tensile Electric Fence for Sheep (1 Acre Paddock)
High Tensile Electric Fencing with Insulator
Since there are so many more products required to assemble a high tensile electric fence relative to the alternatives here, we used an online fence planner to build a shopping list of products. Other sites like Gallagher have similar tools available and if you have questions we recommend that you contact your local rep or send us an email and we'll be happy to point you in the right direction. This is what our shopping list looked like for a 1 acre, 5 strand high tensile perimeter fence with all the bells and whistles ... we hope this offers a quick ballpark glimpse of what a high tensile electric fence may cost relative to some of these other styles, but please remember that this is a fence style which is designed to surround large sections of grassland so the bigger the area you plan to fence, the lower your cost per foot will be.

Please keep in mind that the relative cost of fencing more of your pasture with high tensile electric fencing will be lower as this style of fencing is designed to be long-lasting and to secure extended stretches of field. Today's high tensile electric fencing products for sheep are designed to last 25+ years, making this an excellent investment if you plan to raise sheep for the long haul.

Our recommendation if you're just starting out is to go with a less expensive (and less permanent option), and when you're sure that you plan to maintain a flock for a decade or more, that's a great time to invest in a permanent, efficient high-tensile perimeter fence from Gallagher. 

July 19, 2015

Creating and testing your electric fence ground system

The safest, most economical and effective way to contain your beef cattle is with an electric fence powered with a high quality fence charger. A cow that encounters an electric fence receives one pulse of electricity per second, providing the fence has been effectively grounded.

An electric pulse occurs when the cow comes in contact with both the ground and the wire. When this happens the circuit is complete and the cow receives an electrical shock. Without effective grounding the circuit cannot be complete and the fence becomes ineffective as a method of containing cattle or keeping out predators.

“For your fence to function correctly, your earth (ground) system must be perfect,” wrote Vaughn Jones. “But very few are, despite the instructions provided with most energizers.”

Ground conditions: Moist and wet or dry and rocky?

Before you start to create an effective grounding system for your cattle ranch, consider the ground conditions. To be effective, the rods should be inserted into ground that is continually moist. If your ranch consists of dry or rocky soil, seek an area of your farm that has some degree of moisture or that can be moistened during drought conditions. Or consider adding an earth wire return system.

Figure 1: Placement of grounding stakes

Ground System Installation

  • 10 to 14 gauge galvanized fence wire.
  • Ground rods 4 to 6 feet long by one-half inch (or more) in diameter, galvanized steel rods.

IMPORTANT: Avoid SANDY, DRY and ROCKY soil.

How to effectively ground your electric fence

Grounding your electric fence requires the installation of a ground system that is positioned within 75 feet of your fence charger.

What is a ground system?

The “ground system” is a series of highly conductive rods driven into the soil and then connected by wire to the ground terminal of your fence energizer. The ground system collects electrons from the soil to complete the circuit needed for delivering an effective shock to your animals.

Locating your grounding system

Locate an area of soil for placing ground rods that contains good conductive earth (not sandy or rocky). Soil that is moist throughout the year is best. The ground system should be located within 75 feet of your fence energizer and at least 25 feet from buildings with metal siding.

Locate the ground system a minimum of 75 feet away from:

  • Utility company (electric, gas, water) ground system
  • Underground water pipe
  • Metal water tanks

Figure 2: Connecting wiring for an electric fenceEnergizer Installation

  • Insulated hook-up wire (20,000V)
  • Galvanized fence wire
  • 4 to 6 feet long by one-half inch (or more) in diameter ground rod
  • Ground clamps
  • Power supply – use power supply specified by label on energizer only
  • Ground rods MUST be 25 feet minimum from building foundation

Note: The hot on an energizer is usually either indicated by a red knob or a lightning bolt symbol () and the ground is usually indicated by a black knob or an arrow symbol ().

Troubleshooting ground conditions

If the soil is moist during most of the year but suffers from period of dryness in the hot, summer months, it is possible to water the grounding system to keep a strong electrical connection.

Tip for dry soil: Ranches with extremely dry ground conditions can include a bentonite mix to their grounding system to help absorb moisture. Create a paste or gel-like consistency from powered bentonite and water and pour down a 3-inch diameter or larger holes and insert the ground poles in the center.

Add grounding rods: Another solution for rocky, dry or sandy soil is to add more grounding rods in the grounding system. A standard grounding system contains three, 4 to 6 foot by one-half inch galvanized grounding rods 10 feet apart. For dry soil, add an additional grounding rod to increase the energy connection that completes the circuit between the fence energizer, the ground and the cow.

One of the existing strands of fence can be grounded but a better solution would be to run a bare galvanized wire along the fence line and just below the surface of the dirt. Run a grounding wire parallel between the electric wires and drive a 4- to 6-foot galvanized steel or copper rod every 1,300 feet. By using this system to ground the electrical fence, the electricity is able to effectively shock the cow without the current traveling underground. The wire should be attached to each post for the best results.

Installing the ground system

Supplies needed:

  • Three 4- to 6-foot long by one-half inch (or more) in diameter galvanized steel rods (or more if poor ground conditions)
  • 10 to 14 gauge galvanized, insulated (20,000V) fence wire
  • Sledge hammer or ground rod driver
  • Ground clamps, one for each rod
  • 3 or 4 steel stakes
  • Digital voltmeter made for electric fences
  • 12-inch metal stake

Drive three, 4 to 6 foot by one-half inch (minimum), galvanized ground rods 10 feet apart in a straight line or a triangle pattern in the selected ground area. Leave 6 inches above the ground for securing ground clamps. The ground rod may be driven in at an angle if necessary. Connect the ground rods, in a series, with one piece of continuous 10 to 14 gauge galvanized wire. The ground hook-up wire should be equal to or larger than the diameter of the fence line wire. (See Figure 3.)

Figure 3: Wiring diagram for a ground creturn systemGround Return System

  • Galvanized fence wire
  • Ground rods

WARNING:

Never use an existing grounding rod that is connected to another electrical device or use a water line to ground your electric fence.

Testing your electrical current

The performance of your fence charger’s ability to keep your cows, cattle and other livestock safe and contained relies on the effectiveness of your ground system. The ground system is a critical part of the connection that completes the circuit between the electric fence and your cattle. Verifying that your ground system is working is a “must-do” stage of the installation of your electric fence.

Figure 4: Testing the grounding

Testing the ground system

Test periodically

Once your ground system is installed and the electrical current is verified you will still need to periodically check to make sure the level of electrical current is effective enough to contain your cows.

Check your ground system condition with a voltmeter once during the driest period and once during the wet season each year to insure adequate grounding of your electric fence.

During dry seasons or during seasons when there is excessive growth or vegetation on your fence line, it may be necessary to upgrade your ground system by adding ground rods.

Verify your ground system works

  1. Unplug your fence energizer.
  2. Place the fence under heavy load by “shorting” the fence as follows: At a location on the fence at least 100 yards from the energizer, lean 3 or 4 steel stakes or unpainted T-posts against the “hot” wire of the fence. Alternatively, some people have found a successful method is to push several pieces of fence wire into the earth and wrap the opposite ends around the hot wire.
  3. Plug the fence energizer in and check the fence line voltage with a digital voltmeter. You want to see that the voltage has dropped below 2,000V due to shorting the fence. On some high-powered fence energizers you may not be able to short the fence below 2,000V. However, you can still test them at a higher voltage.
  4. Continue to short the fence by leaning steel posts or by making wire connections to ground at 100 yards distance or more from energizer until the fence line voltage drops below 2,000V.
  5. You are now ready to test the energizer ground system. Connect one lead of the digital voltmeter to a 12-inch metal stake driven into the ground 3 feet away from the last fence energizer ground rod. Connect the second lead to the ground rod furthest from the energizer. The voltage reading should ideally be zero or no more than 200V.
  6. If the digital voltmeter reading is under 200V, your ground system is adequate and you will get near maximum performance from your electric fence energizer.
  7. If the reading is above 200V, then your ground system needs improvement.

You must:

  • Add more ground rods connected in series, ten feet apart and/or
  • Move your ground system to moist soil until the ground system voltage is below 200V.

Most common grounding issues

The most common misconception by farmers, ranchers and weekend hobbyists is that the grounding process isn’t important. The cow completes the circuit so that the electrons flow from the fence energizer, through the soil to the grounding rods and up into the cow’s legs to where the cow is touching the fence with its nose or body, producing an electrical shock. Therefore, the effectiveness of the ground system is extremely important.

Notes: Make sure you test your electric fence with a digital voltmeter on a routine basis. This is especially important when vegetation is high and touches the fence or when the ground is very dry or very damp.

Following are some common grounding issues:

  1. There is a bad wire connection to the ground wire. Check to make sure the wire is securely fastened and isn’t frayed.
  2. The dry soil condition of the farm requires additional grounding rods.
  3. The wrong type of rod was used for the grounding, i.e. pipe or rebar. It needs to be galvanized steel at least 4 to 6 feet long.
  4. The rods weren’t long enough. In the case of dry soil, it may require 6 to 8 feet of galvanized steel to reach a moist area of ground.
  5. The ground conditions changed and due to extreme draught or heavy vegetation, additional rods need to be added.
  6. The wrong type of wire was used. Using household or industrial cables made for only 400V are not enough to support the system. Make sure you use 10 to 14 gauge insulated lead-out wire rated at 20,000V.

Conclusion

Creating and testing your ground system is a critical step to ensuring your fence charger provides the necessary jolt of energy to get your cow’s attention and keep them from ramming or damaging the fence line or themselves.

Four main points to remember:

  1. It is the connection of the cow with the ground and the hot wire that completes the circuit to allow an effective shock to be delivered.
  2. Install the ground system on a consistently moist area of your farm within 75 feet of the fence energizer.
  3. Use the proper rods and wire when building your ground system.
  4. Test periodically to ensure the electric connection is effective during dry, damp and high vegetation seasons.

July 16, 2015

Selecting a cattle squeeze chute based on BQA guidelines

Cow in chute

In today’s cattle market, more and more producers are recognizing the importance of following the guidelines set forth by the national Beef Quality Assurance (BQA) program.

The BQA embraces a total quality management concept, which not only focuses on food safety and meat quality but also on proper animal handling and the public perception of the beef industry.

Cattlemen looking to improve the quality of their beef through the better management practices of the BQA often need to improve the quality of their cattle-handling equipment.

While these improvements can represent a significant investment, the long-term herd quality improvement makes it a smart investment.

It is important to have the BQA guidelines in mind when selecting new equipment, especially when selecting a squeeze chute.

To choose a squeeze chute that complements the BQA’s safe-handling guidelines, producers need to look for a chute that will reduce handling stress on cattle, that will make management practices easy to perform and that will be safe for the animal and operator.

Stress and simplicity
The BQA’s stockmanship and stewardship program focuses on increasing cattle performance by reducing handling stress.

While many factors affect animal stress, several of these “stressors” can easily be reduced by simply selecting the right squeeze chute. Producers should look for a chute that operates quietly to minimize loud banging noises that often spook cattle.

The BQA’s best management practices guide recommends selecting a chute with curved or contoured sides to better fit the shape of cattle.

This guide also recommends covering the back three-quarters of the chute to reduce distractions that could cause cattle to balk.

It is important that the method used to cover the chute does not inhibit the chute’s functionality; snap-on “blinders” are a great option.

Finally, look for an easy-to-operate chute that will minimize the amount of time an animal has to stay in the “squeeze.”

By reducing the time that it takes to work each animal, producers can reduce the amount of stress on each animal, with the added benefit of spending less time “working” cattle.

Help with identification
Another major focus of the BQA is encouraging cattlemen to perform a number of important management practices to improve record-keeping and herd health.

Having the right squeeze chute can make performing these tasks quicker and easier. For producers that use branding as a means of identification, having a chute with a secure squeeze and adequate flank access is important.

For producers that use ear tags or tattoos, it is important that the chute provide a safe way to restrain the animal’s head.

Shot given with squeeze chute

Injection access
Since the BQA states that all injections must be administered in front of the shoulders, cattlemen should also look for a chute that provides adequate access to an animal’s neck.

This can be accomplished by an access port built into the frame of the chute or through the addition of neck extenders. For sick animals, it is important that the chute allow secure access to the affected part of the animal.

This could include drop-down panels to allow access to an animal’s back, side, hooves or udder. Access through the tailgate to the rear of the animal may also be required for procedures that require palpation.

Safety and size
Safety is a topic included in every aspect of the BQA program, so it is important to select a squeeze chute that is safe for the cattle being run through it.

The BQA recommends minimizing slippery surfaces that could cause cattle to fall, so producers should look for a chute with a floor that is grooved or ridged to provide cattle with good traction.

It is also important that the size of the chute fit the size of the cattle. For producers with mixed cattle sizes, like cow-calf herds, look for a chute that can be easily and quickly adjusted to change the width of the chute, the fit of the squeeze or headgate, and the width of the chute entry point.

Cow-calf producers should be especially mindful of the chute entry point or tailgate function, as some squeeze chutes leave a wide opening for calves to “escape” through when the chute is adjusted down to its narrowest width.

An additional safety feature to look for is an emergency exit that will allow a downed or distressed animal to safely exit the chute if the need arises.

Safety for the operator is also key, so it is imperative cattlemen are familiar with the proper use of their cattle-handling equipment. Producers should look for an easy-to-operate chute.

For example, make sure the mechanisms on the chute can be comfortably reached and operated without having to use excessive force.

Be aware of the placement of levers and handles on the chute to ensure they won’t get in the way of the operator while the chute is in use and that there are no sharp edges or dangerous pinch points.

The BQA also recommends regular equipment cleaning and maintenance, so look at the durability and maintenance requirements of a chute before purchasing.

The BQA’s total quality management approach has been instrumental in helping cattle producers adopt better management practices for their herds.

It has also helped producers realize the importance of having the right cattle-handling equipment to make following the BQA guidelines easier.

By selecting a squeeze chute that reduces handling stress on cattle, producers see increased meat quality and efficiency.

Having the right chute also makes it easier to perform important management practices, leading to better record-keeping and healthier herds. Finally, selecting a chute with safety in mind leads to fewer injuries to animals and producers.

Cattlemen who are familiar with the guidelines of the BQA can apply them to selecting not just their squeeze chute, but their complete handling system.

There are numerous publications and videos available from theBQA that can help you improve your cattle-handling techniques and the overall quality of your beef.  end mark

PHOTOS
TOP: A chute should provide secure access to the affected part of a sick or injured animal.

MIDDLE: Since BQA states all injections must be given in front of the shoulders, a chute should provide access to the neck.Photos courtesy of Priefert.

Courtney Dyer

Courtney M. Dyer
Director of Public Relations
Priefert Ranch Equipment

Written by Courtney M. Dyer Published on 24 Apr 2014

July 12, 2015

How do I control feral hogs?

Josh Gaskamp

Feral hogs are a source of misery for many land managers. They eat nearly anything and destroy valuable cropland, urban landscapes, and wildlife habitats and populations in the process.

They also contaminate water supplies and spread disease to wildlife, livestock and humans.

The feral hog’s reproductive potential requires more than 70 percent of the population to be removed every year. One sow can have up to 15 piglets in one litter, and the average litter size is six.

Feral hogs can produce up to two litters per year, and female piglets are capable of breeding at 6 to 8 months old.

Because feral hogs are so prolific and populations are so widespread, landowners either already have a problem or will have one soon. The best time to start controlling feral hog numbers is the day the first one shows up.

Unfortunately, many landowners have already passed this point and population control now takes more effort. There is a diverse set of control strategies for feral hogs, some more effective than others, and each is best suited to particular areas or situations.

Hunting

Methods used to hunt feral hogs may be the most experimented of all techniques. Over centuries, hunters have manipulated their hunting practices to become more effective.

Some strategies for hunting feral hogs are incidental take, using night vision and thermal scopes, hunting with tracking and catch dogs, and following Judas hogs.

In general, hunting is one of the least effective techniques for controlling hogs at the population level but can be used effectively if populations are just emerging.

Feral hogs scatter quickly when fired upon or chased by hunting dogs, making it difficult to remove additional animals after the initial bout.

The Judas technique is implemented by affixing a radio collar to one hog and taking advantage of its gregarious behavior to locate other hogs in the area.

Snaring

In states where snaring is legal, state trappers often use the technique because it is cheap and easy. Snare lines can be run very quickly by pickup truck or ATV, so hundreds of snares may be placed along several miles of fencing.

Disadvantages to the technique include the fact that once a snare captures an animal, the snare is often damaged and unusable, and non-target animals can be captured and injured by snares.

Snare placement takes a lot of experience to minimize injuries to non-target animals. State laws often require snare lines to be checked at least once every 24 hours.

Aerial shooting

Aerial gunning can be fairly effective but should be implemented over large areas (a few thousand acres), requires a helicopter (expensive) and can be relatively dangerous considering the necessary low altitudes and slow speed.

Additionally, feral hogs may learn to avoid open areas when helicopters are present, hunkering down in dense vegetation.

Gunners may not be able to see through dense woody cover during the growing season or in areas with abundant evergreen trees, so this method may be restricted to winter months in areas with deciduous woodlands.

Aerial gunning works best when implemented on large cropland acreages where hogs have few places to hide.

Trapping

Trapping is probably the most effective feral hog control technique available to most land managers. However, trapping is an art; if not done properly, it provides opportunities for hogs to become educated to the dangers of traps.

Trappers should be strategic and disciplined so failures are minimal. Feral hogs are smart and will learn from failed attempts to trap them.

Some traps carry a higher risk of educating hogs than others. For example, box traps are often too small to contain an entire sounder of hogs, so hogs left outside the box traps when triggered witness the dangers of box traps.

Corral and box traps are often animal-activated, meaning the traps can accidentally capture non-target species or can be triggered after only a portion of a sounder has entered the trap. Several strategies can be used to mitigate some of these events, but few work every time.

A great deal of research has been invested in developing better traps that are remotely human-activated in order to allow the user to control trap deployment and eliminate non-target captures.

The electronics that allow remote observation and triggering are handy but do nothing to ensure hogs are comfortable entering the trap.

Therefore, research has also been done to develop traps that work to avoid trap shyness. Drop-nets (nets suspended in the air) avoid trap shyness but are not practical for most land managers.

Using drop-nets as the brainchild, The Samuel Roberts Noble Foundation developed the BoarBuster, a suspended corral trap.

The BoarBuster feral trap

The BoarBuster is completely suspended with no panels at ground level or door thresholds for hogs to cross, reducing trap shyness and making it possible to trap entire sounders remotely.

In addition to trap selection, several fundamentals should be considered when trapping. Bait placement is extremely important. A location where damage is observed is not always the best location to bait.

By placing bait near their daytime bedding areas, the bait is the first thing hogs encounter when they head out to feed, making them easier to pattern.

Always pre-bait a trap site. Pre-baiting means providing a consistent food source days before erecting a trap. Pre-bait for a minimum of three days and only provide enough bait for hogs to consume in 30 minutes.

When the quantity of bait is limited, all individuals in the sounder are forced to eat immediately or risk not getting anything. Later, when traps are set, there is a better chance of catching the entire sounder when the hogs are conditioned to hurry to the bait.

Infrared-triggered cameras are tremendous tools for trappers. They provide information to help select the appropriate control technique and trap size. If only one hog is using the bait, hunting may be the proper strategy.

Alternatively, if a large group is using the bait, a trap should be large enough to capture the entire sounder. Using several of these techniques in an integrated fashion offers the best opportunity to learn and will contribute to the success of future control efforts.  end mark

PHOTO: The BoarBuster feral trap combines overhead nets and corral systems. Photo courtesy of Noble Foundation.

Written by Josh Gaskamp Published on 25 Jun 2015

July 10, 2015

Livestock scales measure animal performance

Squeeze chute on top of a weight pad

Livestock platform scales are viewed as a luxury by some cattlemen, while others consider them a necessary piece of equipment.

Their importance depends upon ranch management goals and selected herd performance measurements.

“Weights at birth, weaning and yearling ages are important expected progeny difference (EPD) measurements, so livestock scales are a must for seedstock producers,” says Dr. Rick Machen, Texas AgriLife livestock extension specialist at Uvalde.

“Scales will probably pay for themselves on large commercial operations if dewormers or antibiotics are used on a regular basis,” says Dr. Joe Paschal with Texas AgriLife extension service at Corpus Christi.

“These medications require an animal’s actual or estimated weight for dosage calculation. Scales can provide cost savings in preventing either overdosing or by preventing increased morbidity due to underdosing.”

A scale indicator with digital read-out

Desired weights

“The ability to measure performance is a key component in all beef cow operations,” write John Arthington and James Stice.

“Regardless of size, producers must be able to identify the current status of their operation in order to make adjustments toward improvement.

Cow culling is a key management tool for herd improvement. Being able to identify the poorer-producing cows within a herd is essential.”

“It’s a good idea to weigh cattle every time they are worked, but the most important weights are birth and weaning,” says Paschal. “Birth weight is one of the factors that determine calving ease, but more importantly, birthweight is the starting point for measuring growth.

The difference between birth and weaning weights is a measure of the cow’s ability to raise a good calf. These weights help identify cows for culling and indicate whether calves have received the right nutrition.

Weaning weights may indicate a need for creep-feeding calves or improving genetics in the cowherd. If calves are sold at weaning, their weight is important at this production stage because it determines their market value.”

“Weaning weight is one of the most important, although most abused, measurements of cowherd performance,” write Arthington and Stice.

“Weaning weight is calculated in many ways; therefore, it is essential that a producer understand the method of calculation when attempting to estimate his or her production efficiency.

A scale indicator with digital readout mounted in waterproof box on side of barn a few feet away from squeeze chute.

“Calf age is an important consideration when calculating weaning weight.

Significant variation in weaning age or breeding season can affect the reliability of using weaning weight to measure cowherd productivity.

One method of accounting for this variation is adjusting weaning weight to a constant age. A commonly used weaning age adjustment is 205 days.

To adjust, simply calculate calf gain by subtracting the calf’s birth weight from its actual weaning weight.

Then divide calf gain by calf age in days. This will be the average daily gain (ADG). Finally multiply ADG by 205 days for a uniform adjustment based on age of the calf. To do this, it is important to know the birthdate of each calf.”

“It is recommended that cows be weighed at the same time as calves,” write Tom Troxel and Bill Wallace. “The cow weight is used to calculate weaning percentage of their bodyweight.

Generally, cows that wean a high percentage of their bodyweight are more efficient and profitable than cows that wean a low percentage.

A load sensor attached to the bottom of a squeeze chute

“Weaning percentage is the calf’s adjusted 205-day weight divided by the cow weight times 100.

Mature cows should wean 50 percent of their bodyweight when their calves are 205 days old.

As cows have increased in size, it has become harder to accomplish that goal.

A 1,000-pound cow will more likely wean a 500-pound calf than a 1,400-pound cow weaning a 700 pound calf (205-day adjusted weight).”

“As cow size increases, the efficiency percent usually decreases,” write Troxel and Wallace. “There’s also a negative relationship between efficiency percent and calf breakeven (cost of producing a pound of beef).

As efficiency percent goes down, calf breakeven goes up. The efficiency percent calculation is very important. A cattle producer would more likely want to keep a replacement heifer from a cow that weaned 50 percent of her bodyweight than one that weaned 38 percent of her bodyweight.”

Types of scales

“Livestock platform scales are composed of three primary parts – indicator, platform and load bars,” says Terrell Miller of Cattlesoft Inc. “Indicators for platform scales come in various degrees of sophistication and in three different price categories.

The most economical indicators, currently costing between $700 and $800, are read manually. Weights are taken from the indicator and recorded on a pad, spreadsheet or notebook. They can also be entered manually into a computer.”

Miller usually recommends an indicator from the middle price range and sells the most units from this group.

These indicators, costing between $1,200 and $1,500, are ideal for basic weighing with electronic identification reader integration. They have internal memory that can be downloaded into a computer format for additional analysis.

The connection for a scale's cable from the indicator to the load sensor. It is mounted at the bottom of the chute.

Indicators ranging in price from $2,000 to $5,000 are the most expensive and comprehensive.

They allow recording and viewing complete animal history while cattle are being weighed. Reports and graphs can be designed right on the indicators.

Load bars, containing sensors, are designed for use with platforms, crates, cages, in alleyways or in squeeze chutes. They currently cost between $1,100 and $1,800.

“If a producer doesn’t mount their load bars under a squeeze chute, a weighing platform is needed which adds another $500 to $700 to the scale price,” says Miller. “Weighing platforms are usually made of aluminum with skid-resistant surfaces. The aluminum makes them durable, lightweight and easy to clean.”

Livestock platform scales are beneficial technology for cow-calf operations if a ranch is large enough to produce a positive return on the investment.

The purchase price must fit the ranch budget and the scale must result in a positive change in profits for it to be a wise buying decision.  end_mark

References omitted due to space but are available upon request.Click here to email an editor.

PHOTOS

1. A squeeze chute with sensor bars underneath.

2. A scale indicator with digital read-out.

3. Indicator mounted in waterproof box on side of barn a few feet away from squeeze chute.

4. A load sensor attached to bottom of squeeze chute.

5. The connection for cable from indicator. Photos courtesy of Robert Fears.

Written by Robert Fears Published on 24 May 2012

    July 09, 2015

    Important things to consider when weighing cattle

     Weighing a cow

    Using electronic scales to track weight gain efficiency not only takes some of the guesswork out of raising cattle by having a better handle on growth rates, but it can also make beef producers potentially more profitable and efficient.

    To ensure you are getting the most out of your livestock scales, keep in mind the following tips:

    1. Determine goals and sorting guidelines

    Consider how you will use your weight data. In order for a livestock scale to be effective, a goal must be determined to assess why you are weighing. Common goals of weighing livestock include:

    • Achieve correct dosage
    • Monitor weight gain
    • Monitor feed efficiency

    In order for any goal to be achieved or improved, it must be measured. With your chosen goals, determine what information you will need from your weight display indicator in order to measure them.

    Do you need just live-weight information, or will you need electronic identification (EID) recording capability and other advanced data capabilities? This will help determine what type of weight display indicator you will need.

    It is also a good idea to have pre-determined sorting guidelines prior to weighing. What will you do with an animal that is considered overweight or underweight? Determining these guidelines prior to weighing, and communicating them with others you are working with, will help make the weighing process much more efficient.

    2. Portable or permanent

    There is no right or wrong answer here. Whatever fits your management goals will determine what type of scale you need. One benefit of a permanent scale is that you can essentially set it and forget it.

    Once the scale is set up and mounted in place, you don’t have to worry about the scale moving or sliding. A portable scale, however, has multiple uses in multiple locations. It has been found that a scale that can be moved easily is a scale that will be used more often.

    There are three parts to a livestock scale system: the load cells, a weight display indicator and a platform or squeeze chute. Depending on your weighing goals and type of setup, either permanent or portable, will determine what type of scale system components you need.

    3. Place scale on a firm surface

    To optimize safety and accuracy, ensure the scale is placed on a firm surface. If your scale is not on a firm surface, the scale can physically move or shift while weighing and display an inaccurate weight as a result.

    Please note that a firm surface does not mean the surface needs to be completely level, especially if it is a portable scale. Livestock scales can be used on pastureground or gravel surfaces and still read accurately.

    4. Positioning load cell cables

    Pinched or twisted load cell cables can adversely affect the outcome of the weight reading. To ensure an accurate reading, make sure load cell cables are coming out straight from the load cells underneath the platform.

    It is a good idea to mount the load cell cables in a coiled fashion out of the way from animal reach and human traffic.

    5. Electricity nearby

    If your weight display indicator requires AC/DC power, make sure there is an electricity source nearby before setting your scale platform in place. For safety reasons, keep extension cord length as short as possible and be sure to keep the area as dry as possible.

    6. Chute-side table

    Once an animal enters the scale, it is important to move quickly. This reduces stress and potential shrink on the animal. Research has shown for every half-hour spent sorting and loading cattle, their weight will shrink by up to 0.5 percent.

    For a 1,000-pound steer, that’s 5 pounds lost per half-hour. Multiply that over a herd of 100 head, and you could be missing out on an extra 500 pounds of live weight.

    It is common to have a chute-side table for all necessary tools (i.e., tagging equipment, vaccination equipment, etc.). With a chute-side table, everything is nearby and within reach when an animal enters the scale.

    Having all necessary tools within arm’s reach will drastically lower chute time and the amount of stress on the animal.

    7. Scale interference

    Is anything touching your scale and interfering with the scale surface? Scale interference can cause weighing inaccuracies. Make sure your scale is clear of manure, large rocks and other debris prior to weighing in order to keep weighing as accurate and efficient as possible.

    Evaluating this checklist prior to weighing cattle will help minimize chute time, in addition to collecting accurate data that can be implemented to improve efficiencies.  end mark

    For more information, contact Nicole Turner by email or at (920) 568-6276.

    PHOTO: If the weight display indicator requires plug-in power, make sure an outlet is near and dry. Photo courtesy of Digi-Star.

    Nicole Turner
    • Nicole Turner

    • Livestock Scale Product Manager and Technical Consultant
    • Digi-Star
    • Email Nicole Turner
    • Written by Nicole Turner Published on 25 Jun 2015

    June 17, 2015

    Gallagher USA Extends Solar Options with New Compact Energizer

    New Advanced, Portable Solar Energizer

    ​​​​KANSAS CITY, MO - The S10 S​olar Energizer is the newest member of the Gallagher Solar Energizer Line-up.  This compact, robust solar energizer that comes with a rechargeable battery and solar panel is a convenient and cost-effective alternative to battery-powered energizers.​

    The S10 powers up to 3 miles and boasts several customer inspired improvements that make it ideal for strip grazing, garden protection, livestock and pet containment.

    Because it uses solar power, it doesn't require a constant supply of batteries to keep it functioning, said Terry Cole, Product Manager for Gallagher North America. 

    "But it's the S10's ease of use that really sets it apart. It's incredibly simple to set up and operate. You hook it up to the fence and ground rod, turn it on and walk away."

    Once activated, the S10 will continue to operate for up to three weeks without sun. An easily visible LED Pulse Indicator shows the Energizer is working and has enough charge. A red light flashes if the battery is low. The waterproof and drop resistant casing is made to last extreme conditions and the S10 Energizer is equipped with in-built lightning protection.

    "And it's very easy to move the S10 from one fence to another. It's only has one control switch, so you don't have to be expert in electric fencing to operate it."

    The S10 can be used in both portable and permanent electric fencing applications.  The optional portable post mount allows attachment to temporary fence posts.  For longer term electric fencing scenarios such as protecting silage bales, trees and riparian areas etc., the S10 can be attached to a wooden post or sit on top of a steel post.  The steel post mount allows for 360 degree placement so that the solar panel can be easily positioned south towards the sun, regardless of which way the post is facing.

    Consumers looking to get the most out of solar energy can rely on Gallagher's S10 Solar Energizer​ to provide dependable, pasture, livestock and pet protection in all weather conditions with many animal types.

    June 04, 2015

    How to Select, Install Electric Fence

    Advice from an electric-fencing expert on selecting and installing it for maximum security and safety for your horse. Plus, a maintenance checklist for you. By Bob Kingsbery with Sandra Cooke for Practical Horseman magazine.


    By Bob Kingsbery With Sandra Cooke

    When you need to build a new fence or replace an existing one, there's a major reason for using electric fence: Properly selected, installed and maintained, it's the most effective way to safely contain your horse. It's also economical and easy to install and maintain. Let's look at the basic components of an electric fence and how to avoid common problems.

    Key Electric Fence Components
    Charger. Sometimes also called an energizer or fencer, the charger needs to be powerful enough to deliver a definite jolt when your horse touches it, even when its current is reduced by vegetation touching the fence line or (as sometimes happens) by moist, dewy early-morning conditions.

    Ignore chargers whose power is rated by miles; look instead for one rated by joules, a measure of the oomph with which the charger is pulsing its thousands of volts of current through the fence once every second. One joule is a minimum rating for fencing that encloses up to five acres, but I always recommend getting the most powerful charger you can afford. A higher joule rating doesn't mean the fence's jolt--which can't injure horses or other animals--will be harder or more painful, but that it will be more consistent.

    The difference in cost will be insignificant compared to the value of your horses and your peace of mind; expect to pay $100 to $120 for a good one-joule charger that plugs into an outlet in the barn or elsewhere; six-joule chargers now sell for less than $200, a small premium for peace of mind. (Worried about your electric bill? Fence chargers use negligible amounts of power, whatever their rating.) I recommend solar-powered chargers--about three times as expensive as the plug-in type--only for paddocks where 110-volt power is unavailable; as well as delivering relatively low power for their cost, they're susceptible to failure.

    It's possible to run insulated cable up to 1/4 mile from a charger to the fence without significant power loss. Install the charger under cover (except for solar-powered chargers, of course), where you can check it easily during each day's routine. Most chargers have a light that flashes with the electric pulse when they're plugged in and functioning.

    Ground system. This is a series of three 6-foot-long, galvanized-steel rods pounded into the ground 10 feet apart and connected by insulated cable (see below) to the "ground" terminal on the fence charger. (In areas where soil is very dry, more than three rods may be needed.) Assuming that you have a good charger, the ground system is the key to your electric fence's effectiveness. If your horse touches the fence, he feels a jolt only when the brief pulse of electric current that goes through his body and into the ground is picked up by the ground system and returned to the fence charger, completing the circuit. Be sure to use a ground rod clamp to attach the ground wire as tightly as possible to the rod, rather than just wrapping it around.

    Insulated cable. The cable that carries the electric pulse from the charger to the fence needs to be specifically for electric fence, with insulation rated for up to 20,000 volts (most fence chargers emit from 5000 to 10,000 volts)--the same degree of insulation as on automobile spark plugs. By using cable designed for electric fence, you avoid the electricity leakage that results when you connect the charger to the fence with heavy-duty household electric cable, whose insulation is rated for only 600 volts.

    When attaching the cable to the fence itself, use a connector clamp rather than just wrapping the cable wire around the fence; cable connected by wrapping comes loose more easily or loses power due to oxidation or corrosion buildup. All fence manufacturers sell a connector clamp designed to work optimally with their product. You'll also need the cable to carry the electric fence current from one side of a gate to the other: Connect all strands of the fence to the cable on the side of the gate nearest the charger.

    My preference is to then run the cable above the gate via an archway high enough to safely admit horses and paddock-maintenance equipment, but most people prefer to run the cable underground. That's fine as long as the cable is encased in waterproof plastic tubing, plugged at each end with silicone caulking and buried in an 18-inch-deep trench to protect it from damage by hooves and equipment. On the far side of the gate, use connector clamps to attach all strands of the fence to the cable.

    Cut-off switch(es). Save lots of extra steps by installing a weatherproof knife-type cut-off switch (sold in the electric fence section of farm stores) between the insulated cable and its attachment to the fence, enabling you to turn the fence off without going back to the barn to unplug the charger. I also like to install cut-off switches on both sides of a gate--multiple cut-off switches allow you to isolate sections of the fence for easier trouble-shooting.

    The fence itself. Visibility is key to an electric fence's effectiveness and safety. Materials such as 1.5- or 2-inch poly tape, braid, rope or coated HT wire make the fence easy for your horse to see and avoid. (Thinner fence materials such as poly wire or 1/2-inch poly tape are suitable for temporary installations or as a "hot wire" to keep horses away from solid fence; uncoated electrified wire--although dangerous when used as a fence material on its own--can also be used to protect solid fence.)
    Choose a product with a long warranty (for instance, some fence materials have a guaranteed lifetime of 20 years) and follow the manufacturer's recommendations for number and spacing of strands. A good general rule of thumb is four to five strands of fence, 4 to 4.5 feet high, for perimeter fences and three to four strands for interior fences. Space the top two or three strands no more than 12 to 14 inches apart and the lower strands 18 inches apart, with the lowest strand 18 inches from the ground to minimize interference by grass and weeds.

    Insulators. The type of insulator you need (to hold the fence material on the post that supports it, while preventing the fence from contacting any surface that will cause current to leak) is determined by your choice of electric fence; most manufacturers market insulators specifically suited to their fence products. In general, braid, rope, and coated wire are installed on insulators that allow the fence to slide through. To help prevent chafe and wear on a tape fence, however, insulators need to be the type that clamps and immobilizes the tape (especially important in windy areas), and to be installed vertically on the fence post. Avoid cheap "generic" insulators (often made of brittle plastic), which only last a few years.

    Testing, Testing... Why It's Important
    When your electric fence is built, monitoring its voltage regularly--I recommend daily--is a basic management practice, just like checking water buckets. Use a digital voltmeter that tells you exactly how many volts of current are on the fence. (How many volts are enough? Four thousand to 5,000--remember, there's no way this jolt of current can hurt your horse, but it needs to be definite enough for him to remember it and want to avoid it.)

    Your first check of your new fence's voltage gives you a baseline so that future checks can alert you to voltage drops that signal problems. Depending on the strength of your charger, it will emit 6000 to 10,000 volts when nothing is connected to it. After you've hooked it to your fence, check the voltage at the furthest point from the charger. Some drop in voltage--1500 to 2000--is normal. A more than 2000-volt drop means either your charger is underpowered for the fence, vegetation or something else is "loading" the fence (touching it, causing voltage to leak away), there's a short-circuit somewhere in the system--or a combination of these.

    If the base voltage on your newly built fence is 4000 or better and everything's working fine, watch on subsequent checks for an overall voltage drop of 1500 or more. (It's normal for voltage to be 500-1000 lower in the morning when moisture on the fence, posts, and nearby vegetation can cause temporary current leakage.) Such a significant decrease means it's time to check for problems and correct them before your horse discovers the fence no longer packs a punch; in fact, many horses can sense when the fence is or isn't functioning.

    Electric Fence Maintenance Checklist
  • Look for and remove sources of "load." Mow or trim under bottom strand to prevent grass and weeds from touching the fence; watch for fallen limbs or other objects on the fence or caught in insulators. (Tips: Listen for the rhythmic snap that indicates a voltage leak; follow your ears to find the source. Drag a long stick on the ground beneath the bottom strand as you walk the fence-line; it may knock away an interfering object you don't even see.)

  • Check insulators. A broken insulator can allow the fence strand to touch the post--not an immediate problem with a nonconductive wood post, but if you're using steel T-posts a broken insulator can cause the fence to go dead when the strand touches the metal.

  • Check connections. Ground-rod wires can get knocked or kicked away. Wires attaching the cable to the fence may come loose.

  • Check the charger. A spider's web built between terminals can cause it to spark.

  • Check insulated cable. Look for places where the cable may be abraded, for instance where it passes through a hole cut in metal barn siding.

  • Check fence strands: Look for frayed spots in poly tape--if metal fibers in the weave become separated, tape can't conduct current.

  • Texas-based international fence authority Bob Kingsbery grew up on a family-owned horse-breeding farm; he has written widely on electric fencing and has conducted more than 300 seminars on fence technology and grazing management throughout the world. You can reach him with your electric-fence questions via email at bob@kingsbery.com.This story originally appeared in the March 2004 issue of Practical Horseman magazine
    - See more at: http://practicalhorsemanmag.com/article/electricfence_021005#sthash.eBjkBqW9.dpuf

    June 02, 2015

    Save $500 on the Gallagher 610 Cattle Scale System

    June 02, 2015

    Is Your Multi-Wire Fence Too Much For Your Charger

    I’ve been asked a handful of times, “Is my multi wire set up too much stress for my fence charger?” Some manufactures rate their chargers in total linear length of wire, and some rate in single/multi wire, so it can be hard to figure out.

    So let’s look at an example:

    Let’s say you bought a fence charger rated up to 5 miles of single/multi wire of fence. You put up 5 strands of wire at 2 miles each, making 10 miles of of electric fence.

    So now you’re thinking to yourself, “Crap, I’ve got too much fence for my fence charger, now what do I do?”  Do you take down 3 of the wires and stay with 4 miles of total fence? You could, but then you just wasted all that extra time running the other wire. So what do you do?

    You leave all 10 miles of fence wire up and then take a jumper wire and tie all 5 wires together from top to bottom. I usually do this at both ends. Now what happens is that these wires are now parallel and they divide the resistance by 5, in theory.

    So you still physically have 10 miles of fence, but to the fence charger, it only feels one BIG 2-mile run of electric fence. Also by having them tied together at both ends, you have a better chance of keeping the wire together. If an animal breaks a wire loose from one end, at least it’s still tied together at the other end.

    Another thing you could do is have a ground return system. You could alternate 3 hot wires and 2 ground wires, or make the top 2 hot wires and the bottom 3 ground wires. Just choose the pattern you like. Then jumper the hot wires together with each other from top to bottom and do the same with ground wires. Then take a single wire and jumper it from one of the ground wires and connect it to the last ground rod.

    What you now is one BIG 2-mile run, but you now have a ground return system. If an animal comes in contact with both a hot wire and one of the ground wires, they’ll get the FULL BLAST from the charger. The animal could be floating in mid air, come across both wires and still get the shock of a lifetime. This set up works well for arid areas where the lack of soil moisture reduces grounding.

    Both of these set ups would work well for any set up, big or small. This is a way to run more hot wire without stressing the fence charger out.

    This is an example of alternating ground and hot wires with jumper wires tying them together.

    This is an example of alternating ground and hot wires with jumper wires tying them together.

    - See more at: http://onpasture.com/2015/05/25/is-your-multi-wire-fence-too-much-for-your-charger/#sthash.DFpz8T9J.dpuf
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