November 15, 2013

Gallagher Fencing Tip: Which Energizer To Use

Gallagher Fencing Tip: Which Energizer To Use

I'm building an electric fence but I'm confused by all the power choices.
Which energizer should I use?



It depends on your situation. Gallagher makes many models with a variety of carefully engineered capabilities. The questions you should answer first are:

· What animals do you want to control?
Containing domestic stock within a pasture takes less power than fencing wildlife out of an area.

· How much acreage do you want to protect?
Obviously, you need a bigger energizer to carry adequate power on larger jobs. If there is a large vegetation challenge for the fence, you need more power. It's a good idea to plan now for any additions you might need down the road, too.

· What power source is available?
Can you tap into a 110 or 220-volt source? If you can't, there is a wide range of battery- and solar-powered units available.

· Can you do the job with a portable system?
Portable systems are easy-to-setup and can be quickly moved, if necessary. A solar kit is usually best for this application.

Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at  717-786-0368

November 15, 2013

Gallagher Fencing Tip: Running Hot And Ground Wires Past Gates

 

I've got a lot of gates.  How do I handle running the hot and ground wires past them?

 

For both the hot and  the ground, bury one heavy-duty insulated cable for each about 10 inches deep in a trench under each gate. Make sure it's rated to 20,000 volts minimum or it may leak current with high-power energizers like our Gallagher MR5000.

 

Please order online 24/7 or callVALLEY FARM SUPPLYat  717-786-0368

November 11, 2013

Gallagher Fencing Tip: Alernating Hot/Ground System Is Best For Drought

 

The Recent Drought Has Dried Out The Soil & My Animals Don't Respect My Power Fence Anymore.  What Should I do?

 

You’re using an “all hot” system where all your fence wires are charged.  All hot systems should be used only in areas with 30 inches or more of moisture annually.  During a drought, an alternating hot/ground system is a better choice.  Make the top wire of your fence hot, then the next one down a ground wire, and so on.  Tie the ground wires together with galvanized wire and connect them to ground rods and the ground terminal of your energizer.  This system carries the ground to the animal and doesn’t rely on damp soil to make the connection. 

Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at  717-786-0368

November 10, 2013

Gallagher fencing questions

Does power fence cost more to build than barbed wire?

No. Materials needed and labor required to build power fence are both significantly less than for barbed wire – up to $1,000 per mile less.

Isn’t power fence intended to be a temporary fence?

High tensile power fence is every bit as permanent as barbed wire.

Is power fence safe for horses?

An equine power fence is one of the safest and most effective fences and training tools you can use for horses. It teaches horses to respect all fences, and when properly designed, it will keep dogs and other unwanted animals out of your horse pasture.

Deer, elk and antelope tear up barbed and net wire fences. Why should I consider a power fence?

Deer, elk and antelope will always win the battle with a traditional fence – it’s a physical barrier that doesn’t match the strength of the wildlife involved. The proper design and post spacing of a power fence allows for a “flexible“ fence, which can take the abuse of the wildlife yet remain intact and control livestock.

What’s the most common cause of power fence failures?

80% of all power fence problems can be traced to inadequate grounding. Your grounding system must be perfect for your fence to perform at its best. After all, it’s half the system.

What does Gallagher recommend for grounding a permanent power fence system?

A minimum of three, six-foot long, galvanized steel ground rods, spaced at least 10 feet apart, and joined with one continuous galvanized wire clamped to the rods.

Can I use copper ground rods?

No. Copper ground rods are not recommended since copper will react with any galvanized steel through electrolysis, and corrode the connection. Gallagher uses only galvanized steel components to avoid this problem.

My animals don’t respect power fences when the soil dries out. What can I do?

You have probably used an all-hot system (all fence wires are charged). Gallagher recommends all-hot systems only in areas with 35 inches or more of moisture per year. A hot/ground system might be a better choice. Make the top wire of your fence hot, then the next one down a ground wire, and so on. Tie the ground wires together with galvanized wire and clamps at the ends, then connect this to the ground rods, and the ground terminal of the energizer. This way, you carry the ground system out to the animal, and are not relying on dry soil to make the connection.

How do I carry the hot and ground past all the gates in my fence?

The best way is to bury heavy-duty insulated cable in a trench about 10 inches deep. Make sure it’s rated to 20,000 volts minimum or it may leak current with today’s high-power energizers. Do not staple it to the post. Remember to carry the ground wire across the gateway also, using the same type of cable. It can be buried in the same trench as the hot cable.

Can I use bare wire to carry the ground under my gates?

No. Use heavy-duty insulated cable for the ground wire. Even good Class III galvanized wire will corrode rapidly when in contact with the soil. Corrosion leads to electricity resistance and soon there is no connection at all.

What should I keep in mind when using high-tensile wire for a permanent power fence?

The two most common errors we see are using too many line posts, and over tensioning the wire. Remember, this isn’t barbed wire. Power fence is a mental barrier for your animals, not a physical one. When using high-tensile wire, it allows for greater line post spacing than conventional wire usually 50 feet as a minimum. Also, don’t over-tighten the wires. You want a flexible system that allows for wildlife impacts, snow loading, etc. Over-building a power fence makes it too rigid, and you lose this benefit. Plus, it costs you more for materials.

Which energizer should I use?

It depends on your situation. Gallagher makes many models with different capabilities. The questions to answer include:

  • What animal are you controlling?
    Domestic stock will take less power to control than fencing wildlife out of an area.

     
  • How big an area do you need to fence?
    Obviously, you will need a bigger energizer to carry adequate power on larger jobs. If there is a large vegetation challenge for the fence you will need more power. Plan now for any additions you may need down the road, too.

     
  • What power source is available?
    If you can, use a 110 or 220-volt plug-in energizer. If you can’t, there is a wide range of battery and solar units available.

     
  • Do you need a permanent or portable system?
    If your needs dictate a portable system, one of our solar kits may fit well.

Why does the voltage increase as I move down the fenceline?

The voltage on your fence is greater closer to the end due to what is called the “bounce effect.“ This means that the pulse the energizer has sent down the fence reached the end and is returning back up the fence. It then meets the next pulse coming from the energizer creating a voltage spike or “bounce.“ This really means that your energizer joule rating is more than adequate for your fence load and has a surplus of energy, which is exactly what you want in your system.

Why do some small energizers show higher voltage readings directly out of the energizer than some larger ones?

Voltage merely represents a difference of potential between two electrical points and is only one aspect of overall power. The Joule rating is a true measure of an energizers stored energy or true power.

Is it OK to hook two energizers to the same line to increase power?

No. The components in our energizers are designed for specific voltage and current requirements. Hooking up two or more energizers to the same line will eventually destroy the energizers.

Why is it best to run multiple hot wires instead of just one?

With more wire there is less resistance to current flow in the wires and less of the voltage is dropped in the line itself, which leaves more to shock the animal.

Why is it best to use galvanized grounding rods instead of just driving a large copper pole into the ground since copper is a good conductor?

Bare metals driven into the ground, regardless of their conductivity, are susceptible to oxidation and/or rust. Because power fence energizers emit only a brief, powerful jolt, it is very important that the conductivity of ground rods be maximized to insure that the animal receives a good shock.

Is it OK to hook up a power fence energizer to barbed wire?

No. Animals can become entangled and trapped in the barbed wire, and while the shock emitted by our energizers is not sufficient to kill or seriously wound a farm animal, the stress of being trapped and repeatedly shocked can.

Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at  717-786-0368

 

November 10, 2013

Electric Fencing 101: Grounding

 

“Why are my animals pushing my electric fence? It was working fine in the spring, and the energizer is still clicking.”

 

Morgan Renner, Wyoming and Montana Territory Manager for Gallagher, one of the largest electric fencing companies in the world, says this may be the most common question he hears. The problem can usually be solved by checking the most overlooked component of electric fencing: how the system is grounded.

 

He tells his students at the many hands-on clinics he conducts throughout the west, “There are three things to remember about your electric fence: (1) Grounding, (2) Grounding and (3) Grounding!”

 

Morgan Explains

 

All energizers provide a pulse of energy that originates from their ‘hot’ terminal then travels down the fence line on a charged or ‘hot’ wire. Most users understand this aspect of electric fencing.  It’s fairly obvious that the hot wires can’t be touching a steel post or laying on the soil surface.  What’s not so obvious is that in the instant when an animal comes into contact with that charged wire, its body contains that energy but is not shocked… yet!  

 

In order to provide a shock and thus the respect for the fence, the energy must travel out of the animal’s feet, through the soil, into the energizer’s ground rods, then into the energizer’s ground terminal.  At that point, the circuit has been completed, and the animal receives the shock.  What I have described is an “all-hot” electric fence, shown below:

 

What might be wrong with using this type of system in most of west, let’s say in July and August? You guessed it. THE SOIL IS TO DRY!  An all-hot electric fence relies totally on adequate soil moisture to complete the circuit between the animal and the energizer’s ground system.

 

Designing a hot/ground fence

 

What can we do? Fortunately, there is an alternative design to use here in the arid west. Take the ground system right out to the animal. Connect the energizer’s ground terminal to the ground rods, and then connect the ground rods to a second wire in the fence line, making it a ground wire. We call this a “hot/ground” electric fence and the electron flow in this type of circuit is shown below:

As the animal attempts to penetrate the fence, it bridges the gap between the ‘hot’ and ‘ground’ wires and receives a shock. The electron flow is routed back to the energizer via a conductive wire, not blocked by dry soil. I can tell you from personal experience, this shock is about a hundred times more effective than one from a poorly grounded all-hot system!

 

Note that we usually recommend at least three, six–foot long galvanized steel ground rods, spaced at least ten feet apart, for these permanent electric fence systems. Think of the ground rods as an “antenna” that collects the energy to form the shock: The bigger the antenna, the greater the shock.

 

Steel posts or rebar are NEVER adequate grounds! They are either painted or rusted, both of which are very poor conductors. Also, don’t use anything other than galvanized steel in the ground system. Copper components, for example, can cause electrolysis and eventually corrode the system’s connections. Always use a quality galvanized clamp for ground rod AND fence wire connections.

 

There are a few more design considerations to think about when constructing this type of fence. Let’s go through them. The spacing of the fence wires becomes more important now, because we are trying to deliver the shock to the face of the animal. What happens when the shock is behind the brain of an animal? That’s right, they generally move forward through the fence.  Not good! 

 

Research and practical experience has shown the optimal hot/ground wire spacing for horses, cattle, calves, and bison to be ten inches maximum. For smaller species such as goats, sheep and hogs, six inch spacing or less works the best.

 

Another design consideration is what to do for gateways. Don’t forget to carry the ground across all your gates! You should use the same insulated cable buried in the same trench as you use to carry the hot to the other side. To be effective, the ground system must be connected throughout your fence, all the way to the end. This is illustrated here:

Photo of a 5-wire High-Tensile permanent electric fence used for bull control. The wire polarity from the top wire down is as follows: Hot / Ground / Hot / Ground / Hot.

Please order online 24/7 or callVALLEY FARM SUPPLYat  717-786-0368

November 10, 2013

Setting up a fence for horses

November 09, 2013

Gallagher Fencing Tip: Replace Copper Rods With Galvanized Metal Rods

 

I'm using copper for grounding rods and now I've got a problem with oxidation. How do I solve it? The oxidation is caused by mixing metals - copper with galvanized fencing in this case. When those two metals meet, oxidation will occur.  Replace your copper rods with galvanized metal rods.  You'll insure good conductivity and maximize the power delivered by your fence's energizer.

Please order online 24/7 or callVALLEY FARM SUPPLYat  717-786-0368

November 09, 2013

Getting zapped by a electric fence

November 09, 2013

What electric fence system is right for you?

If this is your first fence project we recommend you follow three simple steps so you understand your options and can better plan your fence. A well-thought out plan in advance will help you avoid problems later, and assure that your electric fence works as you want it to.

Electric Fence Planning Overview
Before building your electric fence you'll need to take into account many factors including the climate and terrain, the animals you need to fence in - or out, and many other factors. You need to know:

What type of animal(s) do you want to control?
The animal being controlled will largely determine the type of electric fence you need. The animal's hooves, thickness and length of coat, height, jumping ability and many other factors impact your fence selection.

In general, animals with thick, shaggy coats require a more powerful controller than animals with shorter coats and thin hides. Electricity relies on conductivity to deliver a shock, and heavy coats act as an insulator.

One of the conductive wires should be placed at the animal's nose level. The strands need to be spaced so the animal cannot push its head through any two wires without receiving a shock. You may need low or high wires to prevent animals from digging under or jumping over fences.

Do you want to contain or keep out the animal(s)?
A short, safe pulse of electricity creates a psychological barrier that trains most animals to avoid the fence. However, predators, bulls, and other aggressive animals are more apt to challenge the fence, requiring a more powerful fence controller.

What type of electric fence do you need?
We group electric fences into four categories: (1) portable or temporary, (2) semi-permanent or permanent, (3) permanent high tensile, and (4) the Horse Sense Electric Fence System.

Temporary electric fence systems can also be easily moved by using a battery or solar fence controller; poly step-in posts or steel or fiberglass rods; poly wire, tape or rope; and other lightweight components. Temporary fences typically run for short distances, are affordable, are quick and easy to install.

Semi-permanent or permanent electric fences consist of a combination of either wood posts, T-posts, U-posts or rod posts using any type of wire, tape or rope. Installation is easy to moderate, depending on the terrain and the animal being contained or excluded. Often used for pastures and cross fencing, this category of fence will last up to 20 years.

Permanent high tensile electric fences use well-anchored wood posts to support steel wire under high tension. While more time-consuming to install than other electric fence systems, it is the most effective permanent perimeter fence and provides the highest level of security for keeping out or containing difficult or aggressive animals, such as bulls or predators. A well-built high tensile electric fence requires minimal maintenance and will last up to 40 years.

The Horse Sense Electric Fence System® , designed specifically for equine use, emphasizes the horse's safety as well as containment. The system uses white, flexible poly tape or poly rope to make it easy for the horse to see the fence. White vinyl sleeves and caps that cover wood and t-posts protect the horses from injury and complete the classic white-rail appearance. The fence will typically last from 5 to 15 years.

Why is electric fencing a cost effective option?
Electric fencing typically costs less than traditional barbed and woven wire fencing. In addition, animals are less apt to damage a fence, as they usually don't touch an electrified wire more than once. Choosing and installing high-quality components will pay dividends later with fewer maintenance problems and longer fence life.

A more powerful fence controller may cost a bit more, but will save you time and money in the long run. The higher-powered low impedance fencers increase energy on the fence line as weeds touch it, minimizing the need to remove vegetation. It also gives you greater flexibility to add to, or reconfigure, your fence at a later date.

Consider your investment in your livestock, horses and/or pets. You want to protect them with quality electric fence components that will do the job and keep them safe.

 

  Portable/
Temporary
Semi-Permanent/
Permanent
Permanent High Tensile Horse-Sense Electric Fence System ®
Expected Fence Life Short term, frequent moves 1-20 years 20-40 years 5-15 years
Ease of Installation Simple, fast Easy to moderate Moderate, special tools required Moderate
Animals Controlled Cows, horses, pets, lawn and garden pests Cows, horses, hogs, sheep, goats, exotics, deer predators Cows, hogs, sheep, goats, exotics, deer, predators Horses
Best suited for Temporary fencing, managed intensive grazing Pastures, cross fences Permanent perimeter installations High visibility, horse pasture
Post type Step-in posts, steel and rod posts, fiberglass posts T-posts, rod-posts, U-posts Wood posts, T-posts, U-posts Wood posts, T-posts, U-posts
Wire type Poly wire, poly tape, poly rope Poly wire, poly tape, poly rope, steel wire 12 1/2 gauge high-tensile wire Poly tape, poly wire, poly rope
Distance
Short
Unlimited
Unlimited
Unlimited
Features
Lightweight, reusable, easy to move
Workable with any configuration of posts and conductive wire
Longest life fence system available, minimal maintenance
Use with vinyl post sleeves for attractive, white-rail look, afordable

Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at  717-786-0368

November 09, 2013

Electric Fencing Tips

Electric Fencing Tips
An inexpensive solution to improve the bottom line.
By Wayne Burleson


With an extensive 30-year background of building and studying all kinds of animal fencing, I still say that high-tensile, smooth wire, electric fencing is the fastest and most affordable fence that I know of.

Fencing technology has drastically improved over the last 15 years, but breaking out of the old barbed wire fencing mode - lots of posts, several wires, and stretching the wire as tight as a fiddle string - gets people in trouble right away.

The challenge is, with the right fence design and constructed in the right location, coupled with good pasture management principles, a well-built electric fence will earn you money and not cost you money.

Increased pasture subdivisions can stockpile forage for extended wintertime grazing, save forage for early spring pastures, rest/rotate those hard hit areas, change livestock distribution to graze previously un-grazable areas, and stop animals from second biting plant regrowth that depletes root growth...and the list goes on.

Is it that much cheaper? A conventional barbed wire fence can cost up to $1.50-per-foot-plus labor and material.  A two-wire, permanent, smooth-wire electrical fence costs somewhere between 10 to 20 cents per foot depending on terrain. 

That's a huge savings. I know certain ranchers who hate electric fencing, but are learning to live with it, because with today's livestock prices they cannot afford to build conventional fences.

To successfully make the transition over to new fencing technology, you need a very good understanding of how effective electrical fencing works. First off, this kind of fence works only on the brain of the animal, that is, the remembering power of the shock they receive.

Don't think of this fence as a barrier, but as a psychological fence. 

In other words, you need to knock their socks off (so-to-speak) the very first time they touch a smooth wire. Then you have the reverse problem of pushing a barbed-wire fence and shying away from any smooth wire.

Make gates really big for hot fences -- like 30-feet-plus - because with narrow, 12-foot-gates a well-trained animal to a good electric fence will be reluctant to even get near the gate, much less walk right through it.

There are two ways an electric fence works.  All hot-wire system.  When your soils are deep and somewhat damp it produces a high conductive system to shock animals through  their feet.  The electrons must make a complete circuit to receive the maximum shock. The electricity passes from the wire, though the animal, out their feet, through the ground and back to the ground rods. If anything is weak in the circuit they will not get a controllable shock.

The advantage to having decent soils is you can actually get away with a single strand of wire that greatly reduces your fence-building cost. You run into problems with very dry, hard soils, or even frozen ground, as the electricity will not flow very well with these types of soils and produces a weak shock. 

The second kind of electric fence is a hot-ground system.  A ground wire or wires are strung along just under the hot wires.

Another great invention is the use of in-line fence strainers that put tension on each wire. I like to use the kind of in-line strainers that eliminate cutting the wire. You just slip this wheel device onto the slack fence wire and start winding up the wire with this wench, using a special in-line strainer tool. As you start to pull the wire up tight, watch the wire's slack between the line post.

When the wire pulls level, STOP, the wire tension is just right.  What's the matter with a tight fence? I once showed a rancher's fencing crew how to build a one-post fence corner and later I found out that the wood posts pulled out of the ground. Why? Well, you see, each year, some overenthusiastic, big-armed, tough cowboy, would come by and tighten the in-line strainer so tight that you could play "Home, Home on the Range" with the fence wire.  Over time, this would eventually pull any strong post right out of the ground.

You want the electric fence to act like a rubber band. When something runs into the wire, you don't want to break all the insulators or knock posts out of the ground. If the posts are spread apart far enough - 80- to 100-feet-plus - the wire will just bend to the ground and pop back up. 

Labor tips: -  I now use my hydraulic post driver to drive in all line posts, even the steel posts. It's fast, easy and saves me from backaches. 

I keep telling folks to try one wire, but boy is that a hard sell. I usually recommend cheapening up the fence by reducing the number of wires and let the shocking power of the electric fence do all the work.

Knock their socks off - This is where you don't go cheap, but buy the best, most powerful electric fence energizer you can afford, remembering that one day you may be shocking through a lot of tall, wet vegetation.

These fences only work on the shocking power to the animal's nervous system. It's not the number of wires or how tight the fence, it's the strong pain of shocking power that gives you control over the animals.

"A wimpy fence charger gives you a wimpy fence." Don't skimp here because this is where most fences fail. Build a strong, simple fence and hook it up to a great big fence charger.

Your fence charger should be low-impedance, come from a dependable supplier, and have a warranty and replaceable components. It's also handy to find sales folks with an extra charger they can lend to you while yours is being repaired. Expect some breakdowns, especially from lightning. Certain fence suppliers offer lightning protection with their warranties.

The number one problem with failed electrical fences is improper grounding. Lots of fencers, including myself, still think you can skimp when it comes to adequate earth grounding. What we must all learn to do, is install several ground rods, at least three, that are 6 to 8 feet long, galvanized, and attached with good ground clamps. The electricity must complete a full circle back to the charger through the ground. Poor grounding gives weak shocks. Think of the ground rods as radio antennas - the more reception, the better the shock.

The last fence job that I completed, I was out of conventional ground rods, so I looked in my junk pile, and pulled out a 3-inch, galvanized, 9-feet long, heavy walled pipe. My post driver reaches up nine feet, so I was able to drive this whole pipe deep into the ground. This made an excellent ground rod. Nifty, huh?

For the folks looking for the cheapest ground rods, the cheapest that I know about is to simply hook up the ground side of your fence energizer to an existing barbed wire fence that has steel posts in it.  I know that Canada has a shortage of steel "T' posts, but this grounding idea sure works well in the States.

Electric fences require less labor, are safer for wildlife, easier to build and maintain and cost much less than conventional fences.  The weakest link in using this technology is learning a different method of animal control. These fences are psychological fences, they work on the remembering power of the animal's brain and are not barrier fences.

Your fence charger should be low-impedance, come from a dependable supplier, and have a warranty and replaceable components. Please buy one that puts out lots of power. During a rainy year, you may have lots of plant growth touching the wires. That's when you will need extra power to shock through the heavy, wet vegetation.

Don't be afraid to try electric smooth wire fencing. Find a good fence supplier and learn some of the tricks of the trade. I know folks who hate electric fencing, but their pocketbook is not big enough to build a conventional fence, which may cost up to $1 per foot or more while an electric fence costs less than one-half to one-third of that.

The next time your animals get in a fight with the neighbor's bull and tear down a fence line, remember that most educated livestock will not touch a wire, the second time, with 5,000 volts running through it.
 

Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at  717-786-0368

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