May 06, 2014

Farmers battle to keep critters away from their crops

When Andrew Buckwalter decided to grow vegetables on his 100-acre Warwick Township farm seven years ago, he didn't mess around.

First, he shelled out about $7,000 to enclose an 8-acre vegetable plot inside a multi-strand, 8-foot-tall electrified fence.

"I had been on enough farms to know what deer can do, so I wasn't taking any chances," Buckwalter said. "I don't even want to think about what a couple of deer could do if they had access to those vegetables."

Across Lancaster County, it's planting season.

And while those of us who love our locally grown sweet corn, lettuce, spinach, strawberries and all the other delicacies are champing at the bit for harvest time, farmers are thinking about other mouths they'll soon be feeding.

Deer, raccoons, groundhogs, skunks, birds and other wild critters all take a bite out of local crops, which represent a $150 million business here, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture's 2007 Census of Agriculture.

Current estimates of the financial impact of wildlife-caused crop damage in Pennsylvania don't seem to exist.

Mark O'Neill, media and strategic communications director for the Pennsylvania Farm Bureau, said he wasn't aware of any statistics detailing that kind of damage.

A 2003 study by Penn State University estimated the average farmer across Pennsylvania lost about $9,000 per year due to crop damage.

Another 2003 study, this one done at Rutgers University in New Jersey, of economic losses caused solely by deer in 1994-2000 pegged damages statewide at over $43 million.

That study did not include a county-by-county breakdown.

Lancaster County ranked third in the state for the value of its crops, according to the 2007 USDA census.

"Because we're not in the mountains, people don't necessarily think about crop damage around here," said lifelong Warwick Township vegetable farmer Dennis Hess.

"But it's serious enough that (farmers) all think about it."

Fighting back

According to several Lancaster County farmers, there's a certain level of crop damage from wildlife that's expected each year.

“It's something you learn to live with,’’ said Roy Martin, co-owner of Green Hills Farm in Warwick Township, where the family grows feed corn and soybeans.

But when animals push the envelope too far, local farmers fight back.

They plant special crops that animals can't reach.

They also build fences, and hunt, trap and harass animals to keep them away.

"Just about the time you think you have them figured out, something else pops up, or they learn a new trick," Hess said. "It never ends."

It's true that Lancaster County doesn't have the abundance of wildlife that can be found in some of Pennsylvania's more rural areas, such as Huntingdon or Potter counties.

Lancaster County doesn't have the habitat to support as much wildlife as other places.

According to the Lancaster County Conservancy, only 16 percent of the county is forested.

Comparatively, a 2009 study by the U.S. Forest Service found that 58 percent of Pennsylvania is considered to be forested.

Despite the lack of forest cover here, we've still got plenty of animals looking for quick, easy meals.

Plant damage

Jason Charles is co-owner of The Strawberry Field in East Hempfield Township.

In a few weeks, he'll be harvesting the 10 acres of strawberries he and his partner, David Landis, planted last August.

And they'll be hoping deer didn't do too much damage to the plants when they were young.

"We've got more deer than you can shake a stick at in East Hempfield," Charles said.

"We do everything we can to keep deer off our plants in September, October and November."

Those are the months when young strawberry plants "determine" how much fruit they'll produce the following spring, Charles said.

"Whatever they decide then, that's what you get in the spring," Charles said.

The healthier the plant is in the fall, the more berries it will produce in the spring.

Hungry deer can nibble at the plants, which reduces their yield, or they can rip them out of the ground altogether.

The Strawberry Field typically plants about 16,000 plants per acre.

Charles said he's seen years where deer have eaten or damaged up to 20,000 plants.

He's not able to put a dollar value on that damage.

So Charles and his partner have permission from the Pennsylvania Game Commission to shoot a couple of deer to ward off crop damage.

And they also do their best to harass deer out of their fields from September through November.

"We put up scarecrows and try to be around as much as possible — maybe take a ride through the fields in the evenings — just so the deer don't feel comfortable out there," Charles said.

Red-tag program

Besides allowing farmers to shoot deer on a farm-by-farm basis, the Game Commission has the Agricultural Deer Control Program, which allows farmers to enlist help from hunters in culling deer numbers in late winter and summer, when there are no deer-hunting seasons.

It's commonly called the "red-tag program."

Farms are continuously being added and removed from the red-tag program, but as of April 21, there were two red-tag farms in Lancaster County — one in West Lampeter Township and one in Little Britain Township.

Since he built his fence at Buckhill Farm, Buckwalter has had only the occasional deer get inside his vegetable plot.

A bigger concern for him is groundhogs.

Those varmints often dig holes in and around his field, and they can scurry underneath his fence to get at his vegetables.

"We definitely keep our eye out for them," he said. "Whenever we see one, we try to trap it to get it out of there."

Unlike deer, groundhogs are open to general hunting by anyone with a license all year long — except for two weeks during the firearms deer season.

Hess said one of his sons shot 60 with a bow and arrow on one Lititz-area farm last summer.

Other critters

Groundhogs and raccoons are particularly destructive in sweet corn patches, Hess said, because they tend to take one or two bites out of many ears, rather than take one ear and eat it whole.

"They seem to know when we're about to pick the corn, when the sugar content is highest, and they can move in ahead of us," Hess said. "Any ear they bite, I'm certainly not going to sell.

"Even if it's just one bite."

In recent years, Hess has tried planting strains of sweet corn that feature ears that grow higher on the stalk than other types.

"The higher we can get the ear, the less trouble we have from animals," he said.

He's also played around with sweet corn that has a tighter husk, which keeps the end kernels from popping out early and attracting birds, varmints and deer.

That has helped reduce damage some, he said.

"Overall, we continue to hear from our farmers about losses due to wildlife," O'Neill said.

"Obviously, animals are going to go where the food is, and the farm is where the food is."

April 17, 2014

Electric Fences as Bear Deterrents

Uses of Electric Fences

 Electric fences have been used successfully to deter bears around the following settings:

  • airplanes
  • animal feed
  • beehives
  • butchered game
  • camps
  • canneries
  • compost piles
  • domestic animals
  • fish camps
  • fish cleaning sites
  • freezers
  • garbage containers
  • garbage dumpsters
  • incinerators
  • municipal landfills
  • rafts and boats
  • remote cabins and lodges

How Electric Fences Work

All fences discussed on these pages are variations on the same theme-enclosures of wires, carrying a high voltage, low amperage charge, delivered in short pulses. They are designed to cause pain or fear in an animal, but not to cause injury. Electric fences have been used for many years on farms and ranches to contain livestock. What works to keep cattle and horse in, also works to keep bears out!

Electric fences have three main parts. When used properly all three components create an open circuit, which closes when touched by a bear. This is similar to a lighting circuit in your home: the circuit remains open until you turn on the switch, which closes the circuit, and the light bulb comes on.

  1. An electrical device called a charger or energizer pushes and regulates power through the wires of the fence. Chargers that plug into household current (110 Volts Alternating Current--AC) also convert this current to voltage in direct current (DC). These devices, weighing only a pound or two, have been used for many years on farms and ranches to contain livestock. What works to keep cattle and horse in, also works to keep bears out!
  2. The wires of the fence carry the electrical charge. This is the "hot" part of system. When wires are touched, the bear is shocked. These wires are nothing more than uninsulated electrical wires set on posts to exclude a bear from a possible food source.
  3. The grounding rod is usually a 4 ft. by 5/8th in. rod of metal driven into the ground. The rod attracts the electrical current after it passes through the bear. The power is then returned to the energizer through a wire between the energizer and the grounding rod. In order to be effective as a deterrent an electric fence must be properly grounded.

Please note that if you want to install a fence in a particularly dry area your fence vendor may recommend a fence wiring system that uses alternating positive and negative (ground) wires. When fences are constructed in this fashion, the bear touches both a positive and a negative wire at the same time and causes the electrical current to "short circuit" through the bear without having to pass through the ground. A system of this type uses the same materials as any system but requires at least 4 and preferably 8 strands of fencing wire.

Many of the vendors in the Resources section have diagrams of how to construct electric fences for different applications.

Required Materials for Portable Electric Fences

Charger or Energizers for Portable Fences

The charger is the most important and expensive part of an electrical fence. For an electric fence that you can put up and take down relatively easily, you will need a charger with the following qualities:

Low impedance chargers are recommended for all electrical fencing installations where the intent is to deter bears. These chargers are specifically designed to overcome loads-such as grass or branches that may inadvertently come in contact with and draw current from the fence. When selecting a charger specify a "low impedance" model.

Fence chargers should deliver between 5,000 and 7,000 volts. While the exact amount of power needed to deter bears has not been scientifically determined, it is the best estimate of wildlife professionals that these numbers are sufficient.

Joule ratings between 0.25 and 0.70 have proven effective for deterring bears. Electrical engineers determine power amounts in a measurement known as joules. Different energizers produce different joule ratings. It is suggested that when purchasing an energizer for a portable fence that it have a joule rating of between 0.25 and 0.70. Exactly what you need depends on the length of your fence, the number of wires used, and the severity of conditions. Be sure to describe your needs to your fence vendor who will help you with your design. Vendors are listed in the Resources section.

Power Sources for Energizers for Portable Fences

Your fence location will help determine the best power source for you. The best choice for a given situation is dependent on such factors as where you will place your fence, battery charging facilities, and weight.

It is easiest if you can plug into an outlet that connects to a village, town or suburban power supply. Chargers may be plugged into 110 volt AC (household) current.

Away from power supplies, 12 or 6-volt DC batteries are an excellent choice. These "wet cell" batteries can be charged with boat and car engines, portable generators, or solar panels.

9-volt dry cell batteries are an excellent choice for remote situations and for people who choose not to purchase a solar panel charger. They are lightweight, long lasting, and relatively cheap. They can be purchased with 150 amp hour ratings.

"D" cell flashlight batteries are useful when size and weight are an issue. Not as long lasting as dry cells

Wire for Portable Fences

The wires of the fence carry the electrical charge. There are two choices for portable electric fencing: polywire and electro-plastic netting. Other fencing wire made of steel or aluminum is adequate, it's just not as easy to use or transport

Stranded polywire consisting of at least six strands of stainless steel wire woven into a thin polyethylene rope is recommended. It has no "memory", is lightweight and easy to roll and unroll. The top strand of a polywire fence should be 1/2 inch polytape wire. If desired, polytape wire can be used for all the strands. Polytape wire has the advantage of being highly visible to both people and bears. However, a fence entirely of polytape needs to be firmly anchored in windy areas, and will attract frost and ice during freezing conditions.

Lightweight aircraft cable has also been used in portable fences that can then be rolled up and carried around as a unit. This type of conductor does not degrade in sunlight or crack in cold temperatures, and has no "memory."

We recommend a minimum of 3 strands of wire for portable fences, with the lowest wire at 10-12 inches and the upper wire at about 40 inches above the soil.

Electro-plastic netting has effectively deterred bears at fish weirs and hunting camps on Kodiak Island. It's cheap, lightweight and easy to set up.

Connecting Wires for Portable Fences

You will also need short lengths of 12 to 14-gauge copper electrical wire to connect the energizer and the fence, and the grounding rod and the fence. For portable fences some people prefer alligator clips as connectors to the energizer. A standard commercial ground rod clamp is often used to connect the grounding rod to the fence.

Grounding Rods for Portable Fences

Dry soils are less conductive to the flow of electric current. Therefore you may need larger and/or multiple grounding rods if your soil is very well draining. Your fence vendor can help you to choose how many rods you will need and the most appropriate size and material, for the type of soil around your fence. A single 4 ft. by 5/8 in. copper rod driven 2 or 3 feet into the ground is adequate in most soils. An electric fence voltage tester will help you determine if your ground is adequate.

Fence Posts for Portable Fences

Non-conductive plastic posts are a good choice for portable fences. Fence posts may be made of any material but wires must be insulated from touching the posts so that the electricity is not carried into the ground by the post. Many different commercial insulators are available and your vendor may have suggestions.

Fence posts may be optional in brushy or forested areas. Some people have had good success with suspending fence wires with "zip strips" (plastic wire holders) from convenient branches.

Gates for Portable Fences

Essentially a gate is a place where a person can interrupt the fence circuit and make a place so they can pass through without disrupting the wires. Gates generally need an extra post or two. The gate needs to be made of wire and insulated, and hooked up to the other wires so it is "hot." You may want to get insulated gate handles.

Voltage Meters for Portable Fences

It is important that your fence have 5,000 to 7,000 volts at all points along the wires. For this reason we suggest you purchase a voltage meter specifically designed to test electric fences. Such units should also indicate that your fence is properly grounded. These meters can be purchased from one of the vendors listed.

Required Materials for Permanent Electric Fences

 If you are planning a permanent electric fence for your lodge, camp, or home you may want to contact your local Alaska Department of Fish and Game for information about bears and fencing in your area. Permanent electric fences for solid waste sites and landfills have special considerations. Individuals or communities wishing to construct bear proof fences around these facilities to contact their local ADF&G management biologist.

Charger or Energizer for Permanent Electric Fences

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game follows the energy requirements used by the U.S.D.A. Forest Service for electric fences in National Forests in the Western United States. The requirements are a minimum of 6,000 volts output at every point in the wire, 0.7 joules of energy available at the energizer, and a minimum of 40 shocks per minute.

Power Sources for Permanent Electric Fences

Your fence location will help determine the best power source for you. The best choice for a given situation is dependent on such factors as where you will place your fence and battery charging facilities.

  • It is easiest if you can plug into an outlet that connects to a village, town or suburban power supply. Chargers may be plugged into 110 volt AC (household) current.
  • Away from power supplies, 12 or 6-volt DC batteries are an excellent choice. These "wet cell" batteries can be charged with boat and car engines, portable generators, or solar panels.
  • Solar battery chargers, come of which are integral components of energizers, are effective for fence systems that are off the power grid.

Wire for Permanent Electric Fences

 Galvanized, smooth steel, or aluminum wire work well for large enclosures. Stranded stainless steel polywire and polytape are good choices for smaller sites. A minimum of four, and preferably eight strands of wire is recommended. The distance between wires should be six to ten inches.

Grounding Permanent Electric Fences.

Dry soils are less conducive to the flow of electric current. Therefore you may need larger and/or multiple grounding rods if your soil is very well draining. Your fence vendor can help you to choose how many rods you will need and the most appropriate size and material, for the type of soil around your fence. A single 4 ft. by 5/8 in. copper rod driven 2 or 3 feet into the ground is adequate in most soils. An electric fence voltage meter will help you determine if your ground is adequate.

Fence Posts for Permanent Electric Fences

Many options are available. The only rule to follow is to use non-conductive plastic or fiberglass posts or make certain the wires are properly insulated from the posts using the many commercial insulators that are available. A permanent fence wire is usually stretched tightly between posts and may require sturdy bracing, insulators, and gates. Contact your fence vendor for recommendations.

Gates for Permanent Electric Fences

Essentially a gate is a place where a person can interrupt the fence circuit and make a place so they can pass through without disrupting the wires. Gates can be anything from a steel commercial unit big enough to drive a truck through, to insulated handles attached to each fence wire. Gates generally need an extra post or two. The gate needs to be made of wire and insulated, and hooked up to the other wires so it is "hot." You may want to get insulated gate handles.

Voltage Meter for Electric Fences

It is important that your fence have 5,000 to 7,000 volts at all points along the wires. For this reason we suggest you purchase a voltage meter specifically designed to test electric fences. Such units should also indicate that your fence is properly grounded. These meters can be purchased from one of the vendors listed.

Safety Information

Electric fences are unlikely to harm people, pets or bears because the current or amperage is very low and is not likely to cause injury. However the voltage is very high, for this reason energizers send power through the fence wires in pulses, about once every second. Because the current isn't continuous, the animal or human that comes in contact with the wire has a chance to break free of the fence-feeling only a quick nasty jolt.

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game strongly recommends that you do the following to make your fence as safe as possible

  • To be certain you are purchasing a charger that will not harm people, bears, or pets look for a UL-approved label that meets federal safety standards.
  • Avoid "weed burner" chargers. They have longer electrical pulses than the low impedance models, being designed to burn off vegetation that comes in contact with the fence. These units present a fire danger.
  • Place appropriate warning signs on the fence.
  • Use highly visible polytape if you expect visitors to your fence site.
  • Caution children about touching the fence, using the gate, and operation of the energizer.
  • Do not set fences up in streams, lakes, or standing water. Water conducts electricity. Animals or humans that stand in water and touch the fence could receive multiple shocks that may cause injury.
  • Consider using electro plastic wire mesh when possible, or when you think there is a possibility young children may play in the vicinity of the fence. Wire mesh is highly visible and it discourages children and small animals from entering between strands of wire.

How to Set Up an Electric Fence

  1. Contact a reputable vendor for electric fences. The Resources section on this website offers some names and addresses. The Resources section also contains diagrams that will be helpful in setting up your fence. Your vendor should ask you to describe the type of use you envision. You'll need to tell them that you're using the fence as a bear deterrent, whether the fence needs to be permanent or portable, how large an area you want to enclose, what type of soil underlies the site (rocky, sandy, dry or wet), and how much human traffic you expect.
  2. Plan the complete layout of the fence. Determine the total length of the fence. Determine how many gates and if the fence will run over or under roads or other such areas. Be sure to include enough posts so that your fence wire doesn't sag and allow animals to cross. Most people find a distance of 7 to 10 feet between posts to be adequate. Gates and corner braces generally need a few extra posts.
  3. With your vendor, select your materials. You'll need an energizer (charger), grounding rod, posts, and wires. You'll need insulators and insulated gate handles in most cases. You may want stronger posts at the corners of your layout, especially if you are planning a permanent fence with taut wires. For some dry soil locations your vendor may recommend a system that has alternating positive and negative wires.
  4. Follow directions to set up your energizer. Energizers come with directions and in every case we've seen terminals to the fence wire and power source were clearly marked. Make certain your connections are secure. A short piece of wire is needed between the energizer and fence. For permanent installations standard wire connectors may be used. For portable units some people prefer alligator clips. Another wire is needed between the ground rod and fence. A standard commercial grounding rod clamp works well here. Connecting wires can be the same type as the wire you are using for your fence, or you may choose to use either 12 or 14-gauge electrical wire. Make sure you install the charger inside the fence so the bear can't destroy it.
  5. Place the grounding rod as close to the energizer as possible. This makes for shorter runs of wire between the fence, energizer, and grounding rod. If possible, drive the ground rod as deep as possible. It may be necessary to drive the ground rod into earth at an angle instead of straight down. Make sure you have an additional grounding rod for each 1000 ft of fence-you can't have too many grounding rods!
  6. Install your posts, wires and gates. Make certain your posts and wires are clear of branches or other vegetation. While most low impendence chargers can handle a minimum of interference, less vegetation-particularly wet vegetation-means a more effective fence. Install all of the accessories items according to the installation guide or individual installations supplied with the product.
  7. After the fence is installed, check the operation. Check all connections for tightness and make sure the fence wires are properly installed within the insulators. If an electric fence gate is used then make sure that it doesn't interfere with the circuit of electricity.
  8. Activate the energizer and check the fence system installation for correct operation. Use your voltage meter/fence meter to check your fence for both proper grounding and for adequate voltage at different places on the fence. Your meter is also handy for tracing fence line shorts and faults.

Maintaining your Electric Fence

  • Electric fences should be left on whenever possible. It is very easy to shut off the power when inside the fenced enclosure, however, unless you are absolutely certain there are no bears anywhere near, it is advised to always leave the fence ON. If a bear visits your property while the fence is turned OFF, the bear will learn that the fence is not always something to be feared.
  • Test the current on a regular basis! Drought or other factors may reduce soil moisture, decreasing its grounding efficiency.
  • Batteries must be charged adequately to provide needed current.
  • Remove grass and branches or blowing trash that may drain the current. It is very important that the fence doesn't "ground out" due to excessive vegetation or trash on the fence wire

 

April 17, 2014

Hongkonger jailed over sheep's death on electric fence

The first-ever prosecution under a two-decade-old law has resulted in a jail sentence for a man who set up an electric fence that killed a neighbour's pregnant sheep.

Chan Hon-Kay, 51, was jailed for two months yesterday after earlier being found guilty by Fanling Court of failing to prevent an electrical accident, an offence under the 1990 Electricity Ordinance.

As well as killing the ewe, the fence left a neighbour who tried to rescue the animal, Yan Hau-ming, unconscious and injured two other sheep, the court head.

Prosecutor Francis Ngan told the court there was no precedent for a prosecution for the offence, which applies to owners of electrical devices which harm others, regardless of the owner's intent or presence at the scene.

Deputy Magistrate Cherry Hui Shuk-yee said: "Not only did the sheep die, the two lambs it was pregnant with also died … Chan, as the person who deliberately set up the device, must be held responsible.

"[Chan] set up a dangerous device while knowing there was considerable risk" of death, Hui said. She cited the comments of an engineer, who told an earlier hearing that "if a sheep or a man comes into contact with electrical wires of 220 volts, the sheep or man may be electrocuted".

The defence had earlier denied all knowledge of the fence, which was placed in a bushy area in Lok Ma Chau between land owned by Chan's family and land belonging to Yan's family, which owned the sheep.

The court heard that Chan's family had a series of disputes with Yan's family, who ran a farm and were rearing 22 sheep.

Yan earlier told the court he had rushed to the scene when he heard the ewe moaning, only to find wiring wrapped around its neck. After passing out from an electric shock, he said he awoke after two minutes and saw Chan collecting the wire.

Chan had told the court he was working with his brother-in-law in Yuen Long at the time of the accident on July 29, an alibi Hui dismissed as unbelievable.

The magistrate said yesterday that there was no precedent for the offence, but that the law allowed for a maximum fine of HK$50,000 and up to six months in prison. She rejected defence counsel Felix Hoe's plea for a suspended sentence or fine, as "Chan's background reports showed no remorse or reason for commutation of the jail term".

The defence immediately applied for leave to appeal against the conviction. Hui granted the application and released Chan on bail of HK$30,000.

Outside court, Chan's family said they would not give up the fight to prove his innocence.

March 22, 2014

DEER FENCE

The only 100% deer barrier is an 8 ft tall

woven wire fence or solid wall. But they are both

expensive and very permanent.

An alternative is electrified fences. They rely

upon a painful shock to persuade deer to neither

jump nor penetrate a fence.

Because they aren’t physical barriers, electric

deer fences rely upon key deer behavior aspects.

Where they choose to feed, rub, walk and breed

are habits learned over time—a habit reinforced

every time they do it safely.

Suddenly fencing a deer herd away from an

area or trail forces the herd to break a habit

(by a fence) is critical if the fence is to succeed.

Once a herd’s pattern is broken, the change in

feeding/walking location is easier to maintain.

feeding sites, trails and rubbing trees.

Electric fences use pain to raise the “cost” (the

degree of risk and effort to use an area) and

persuade deer that it is safer and less frightening

to feed, rub or trail elsewhere. When they are

desperate they may risk the pain—which is why

you can’t keep out starving deer with electric

fencing if the site is their only food source.

make a decision to avoid them.

That’s why it’s important to identify deer trails

entering a new exclusion area and interrupt them

with something physical (e.g. a brush pile) where

the trail approaches the fence. Do this when the

fence is installed.

Why? The trail change makes them tentative.

So they move cautiously.

Why not? Because frightened deer don’t make

normal decisions. As prey animals they are easily

spooked into leaping over or through fences.

And once deer learn that they can jump the fence

without pain, they’re more likely to do so when

not frightened, a habit that’s costly to break.

Why not? The intent is to first change the

herd’s “habits.” So install a new fence around

a small area first. The local deer herd will

encounter it, learn to avoid it and instead feed

or rub in adjacent areas.

Leave it in place for 2 weeks. Then

progressively expand the enclosed area until

100% is protected.

Their world is black, white and shades of gray.

Therefore, barriers that contrast with their view of

the world are the most visible to deer—and likely

to get their attention.

It’s been our experience that electric fences

that fail for deer are usually:

• Installed at the wrong time (after the herd’s

habit is deeply ingrained).

• Managed without an awareness of how a

deer herd interacts with fences.

• What are scent caps? Metal pop bottle caps

attached to the fence that are baited with

scent to attract deer. It’s a Premier invention

that’s been copied by others.

• How do they work? Experience has shown

that scent caps encourage deer to have an

initial painful interaction with a new electric

as easy to apply.)

• How many caps? One every 50 ft in heavy

traffic areas (or 100 ft in low traffic areas).

• Is it hard to rebait scent caps? Baiting

involves turning off the energizer; walking

or riding the fence; twisting the cap upward,

squeezing a few drops of apple scent onto

the cotton inside the cap; and twisting the

cap downward again.

March 22, 2014

Beehive Protection

 

The fence is as visible to hogs at night as possible (contrasting black and white).Because it’s so easy to use and adapts readily to most situations, netting has become the way to protect hives from bears, wildlife, livestock (cattle, sheep, goats, pigs) and feral hogs.

A word of advice: Fence is unable to contain bees. But it does keep the hive safe from 4-legged pests.

Durability If used with care Premier’s nets will last up to 10 years. Don’t allow the grass around it to become overgrown—because folks tend to tear the net during removal.

March 22, 2014

Before you buy or build a fence

Before you buy or build a fence

Q. What is the fence’s location? Is it flat? Or does it go over hills and ditches and around curves? Is it covered with brush, trees or open grass? Are the soils rocky, very soft, sandy or firm?
A.The optimum fence design often hinges on answers to these questions.

Q. Do the animals know the fence?
A. Local animals and wildlife get to “know” a fence by appearance, location and “pain memory.” If it’s a strong or painful fence they avoid it. On the other hand animals new to fences may challenge them. That’s why strong, tall and visible permanent fences are essential.

Q. What specific animals need to be fenced in or out?
A. Always design and build for the most difficult species. Rules of thumb:
• Deer jump with ease. Fences need to be tall or 3-D. 
• Smaller garden pests easily walk beneath deer fences, spacings need the bottoms of fences must be close together. 

Q. Should you energize the fence? 
A. It pays to do this. Why?
• A “hot” strand has a “zone of pain.” So fewer strands are needed if one is energized. Both the material and the labor to install is reduced. 
Energized fences last longer and require less maintenance—because animals do not crowd, rub or scratch on them. So the fence wires (including wires that are not energized) require less tension to do their job. And braces and corner posts will last longer. 
• Animals are more surely contained or excluded during breeding and weaning. 

Q. How keen will animals be to breach the fence line? 
A. Build for the worst-case situation (if you can afford to do so). 
Some situations that require more secure fences:
• Hunger. Starved animals will eventually challenge most fences. 
• Weaning. Strong physical barriers are needed. 
• Breeding. Libido induces all creatures to challenge rules and especially fences. 
• Boredom. Animals in corrals, stalls and feedlots crave any “entertainment” or activity. 
• Gateways and handling yards. Animals often push each other into fences when being moved. 
• Fear and fright. Predators or loud noises can cause “prey” species (e.g. horses, goats, turkeys) to run in terror straight into, under, over or through any fence, no matter what fence design (netting, high-tensile or woven wire).

March 22, 2014

Twenty years of grazing profitably, inside and outside the box

By Rachel Gilker  /   March 17, 2014  / 

Ron Holter is one of the smartest farmers you could meet. He thinks things through to create the life he wants. Now his dairy cows eat no grain, aren’t high producing, and he has time to take a nap just about every day. Here’s how he makes a good living in spite of (or because of) all this.

Holter Family

The Holter Family

Holterholm Farms has been in the Holter family since 1889. Now owned and operated by Ron Holter with the help of his son Adam, it’s one of the few remaining farms in Middletown Valley in Maryland, about an hour and a half from Washington, DC.  In the early days, the farm was diversified. Later it became strictly a dairy farm, and the herd moved into the barn.  But when Ron bought the farm from his dad 20 years ago, he realized that industrial-style dairy farming wasn’t going to do anything but burn out him and the farm. He looked deep inside, and he prayed, and he put the cows on pasture about a year and a half later.  (See Making the Switch to Pasture Based Dairying for more on how he managed the change.)

Since making that big move, Ron has tried lots of things, settling on a diversified farm with a grass-based, organic, grain-free dairy. His goal has been to reduce inputs and labor while increasing profits.  Each change Ron has made was with a lot of thought, and each has lessons for all of us.

Seasonal Dairying

After switching to grazing, the next of Ron’s big changes was to move the herd to seasonal calving. Even in Maryland, winter is cold, and grazing doesn’t provide much feed. With careful money management and reduced inputs, taking two months off from milk production was feasible.   Now they dry the herd off right before Christmas, and don’t ship milk again until February 24th. That means ten months of milk checks cover the whole year, and that the two coldest months of the year don’t involve milking.  My hands feel warmer just thinking about not milking in the winter!

Grain-Free & Organic

Ron Holter checks his pastures and herd.

Ron Holter checks his pastures and herd.

In 2005, almost ten years after switching to grazing, Holterholm Farms was certified organic. Going organic fit with Ron’s low input management style, and it gave him some stability in milk prices when they signed with Organic Valley.

If you know much about organic dairy farming, though, you might know about the high cost of organic grain. Since Ron is all about reducing inputs, this meant that he began looking at going grain-free as well. It was something he had wanted to do since he started grazing, because as he says, with passion in his voice, “Cows aren’t created to eat grain. It lowers the quality of the milk.” Plus, he adds, “Not feeding grain makes the milk GMO free.”  Ron knew that New Zealand, farmers don’t feed their cows grain, so he figured Holterholm farm could do it successfully too.

It turns out that the switch to grain-free wasn’t such a big one. For years, they had been breeding their herd of Jerseys towards a herd that required less grain, and their animals had only been getting 4 lbs of grain per cow per day. In 2007, when they stopped feeding grain altogether, the drop in production was pretty much balanced by the cost of grain.

Because Ron and Adam don’t feed grain, pasture management became that much more critical. To make sure pasture quality is as high as possible, Ron tries to walk the pasture every week to plan the rotation. The herd is out on pasture year round, fed hay during the winter months. Ron explains they “hay some of the pastures and feed the hay back to the herd on those pastures to maintain and build fertility.” Ron and Adam work at increasing forage diversity as well. Pastures get over seeded regularly, working toward an herbal ley mixture, a complex mix of pasture forage plants. 

Healing the Land

How Long Does Healing Take?Ron’s tried some other management tools as well. When he began farming, the land had been cropped for decades, and it didn’t have the biological diversity and soil health Ron was striving for. To heal the land, he gave it a break, fallowing 1/7th of the pastures each year. The grasses were allowed to grow up, ungrazed, until they were tall and brown, letting their roots reach deeper into the soil. After years of this, he found that it was no longer necessary, and in fact was causing some negative effects. Urine spots were visible, indicating low nitrogen levels in the fallowed pastures. Those pastures also lost biological diversity from not having animal impact on it for 6-10 months in a year.

Now that the pastures are healed, Ron says “because it’s a non-brittle environment, [they] don’t need the break when you’re not trying to heal the land. Taking 50 years of a cropped farm and getting it back to a biologically active soil, it needed the healing. Now that the wheels are turning [in the soil], the rest doesn’t seem as necessary.”

Ron and Adam have a cull rate of 3-4%. They do cull a few each year that don’t meet the pregnancy window, but those go to other farms as dairy animals. Their oldest cow is a young 14; until recently the oldest milker was about 17. They raise their calves using nurse cows. They find the nurse cows are a great addition, and a story for another time.

Tall Grazing

One more thing Ron and Adam tried was tall sward grazing. It just didn’t work for their herd of Jersey dairy cows. They were moving cows two to five times and up to 8x per day, but they couldn’t get the Jerseys to do more than pick at the green leaves. They followed the Jerseys (dairy) with Herefords (beef). The Herefords were getting fat, but the Jerseys lost condition, and with that came a loss in production. They tried tall grazing for a year and a half, but it just didn’t work for them. Now they put the Jerseys in  at 12-18″, not the fully mature tall swards they had been grazing.

So How’s the Bottom Line Doing?

The farm is also a place for other products. It's not just a dairy farm anymore. The farm provides eggs and ground beef, and a few times a year, they  sell beef by the quarter, half and whole. Ron and Adam hope to build a farm store one day, but not just yet.

The farm is also a place for other products. It’s not just a dairy farm anymore. The farm provides eggs and ground beef, and a few times a year, they sell beef by the quarter, half and whole. Ron and Adam hope to build a farm store one day, but not just yet.

All this works for the Holters, with numbers that might surprise you. Their rolling herd average milk production is only 6500 lbs. That’s per cow.  But they are profitable. In fact, their overall profit over costs is 30.1% for a three year average that includes two years of poor production when the herd was grazing the tall sward. The 30.1% of the milk check more than covers the family’s living expenses with some left over.

Holterholm Farms is profitable because their production costs are kept low, very low. By focusing on costs of inputs, not just on volume of outputs, Ron and Adam have made the farm work for them, not just the other way around.  It’s a lesson that could serve us all very well.


February 28, 2014

Providing Adequate Fencing for Your Goats

By Cheryl K. Smith from Raising Goats For Dummies

If you've decided to raise goats to green up your lifestyle, you need to provide good fencing to keep them in and to keep predators out. You can also use fencing to protect your trees and shrubs from goats. Adequate fencing means different things in different situations. If you have kids and adult goats, you need to make sure the kids can't get through the fencing and the adults can't get over it.

Goats love to rub on walls and fences. If you put in new fencing, make sure you set your fence posts deep enough. Wooden posts need to be at least two feet deep. If you're using metal T-posts, make sure to pound them in past the V at the bottom that holds them in the ground.

If you have an area with existing fencing, walk the fence line and

  • Inspect the fence for holes in or under it: Patch holes in the fence and fill or block holes under it.

  • Check each fence post to make sure it's solidly set: Replace, add a new post, or solidify the weak one.

  • Measure to see whether the fence is high enough: A 4-foot fence is adequate in most cases. If it isn't, add a strand or two of electric wire or fence it higher.

  • Determine whether any trees need to be fenced out or around: Keep goats away from trees you don't want eaten or that are poisonous.

If you need to put in new fencing or replace fencing, you have a variety of fencing types to choose from:

  • Field fencing: Field fencing, or woven wire, attached to metal T-posts is probably the most common type of fencing for goats. It's moderately expensive and is sturdy if installed properly. A four-foot-high field fence will keep miniature goats in but isn't high enough for a determined bigger goat. A strand of electric wire along the top and 10 inches off the ground usually keeps all goats in.

  • Cattle or hog panels: Galvanized cattle panel with graduated spacing makes excellent fences for goats. The panels are 50 inches high. You can add a strand or two of electric wire along the top for larger goats. To keep in miniature goat kids you may need to reinforce with chicken wire or woven wire along the bottom.

  • Electric wire: Electric wire is an excellent addition to any of the other types of fencing. The wire and insulators are inexpensive; the biggest cost is the charger and ground rod. A strand along the top helps keep predators out and goats and livestock guardian dogs in.

    Use a 4,000-volt charger for goat fencing. If your fencing isn't near a power source, get a solar charger. Place the grounding rod in a location that is as dry as possible. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for grounding and charger placement.

Avoid using barbed wire or wood fences for goats. Goats can get injured by the barbs.

February 28, 2014

Farm - Fencing - Electric Fencing - Chargers & Energizers

Gallagher Electric Fencing from Valley Farm Supply

Free Fence Tester and Free Shipping on Gallagher Electric fence Chargers in USA!

Free Gallagher Baseball Cap with $500 Order!

We are Valley Farm Supply and we were established in 2004 as a source for quality farm supplies. We offer Gallagher electric fence products to professional farmers, ranchers as well as hobby farmers. Valley Farm Supply is one of the largest Gallagher electric fence dealer in the U.S.A. , which means we can pass along savings to you.
We are a direct source for your Gallagher livestock electric fence needs, Miraco livestock waterers, and Gallagher Cattle and Livestock Scales. We also handle other brands of farm supplies, cattle drinkers, electric fence products, electric fence chargers and electric fencing items. We sell electric fence chargers, solar chargers battery chargers, energizers, wire, netting, fence insulators, hardware, poliwire, politape, hi tensile wire, wildlife fence, horse fence, gates, electric fence tools, strainers, polirope, equibraid, reels, fence testers, grounding parts, solar panels, fencing materials, seed, equine items and farm supplies. Please ask if we can supply your farm or ranch with the things you need to be successful.
WE SHIP WORLDWIDE!!! International Customers, Please Email us for a shipping quote at sales@valleyfarmsupply.net
Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at 717-786-0368 or email us at sales@valleyfarmsupply.net for help or advice.

 

February 27, 2014

Valley Farm Supply - Enjoy browsing: Electric Fencing

Gallagher Electric Fencing from Valley Farm Supply

Free Fence Tester and Free Shipping on Gallagher Electric fence Chargers in USA!

Free Gallagher Baseball Cap with $500 Order!

We are Valley Farm Supply and we were established in 2004 as a source for quality farm supplies. We offer Gallagher electric fence products to professional farmers, ranchers as well as hobby farmers. Valley Farm Supply is one of the largest Gallagher electric fence dealer in the U.S.A. , which means we can pass along savings to you.
We are a direct source for your Gallagher livestock electric fence needs, Miraco livestock waterers, and Gallagher Cattle and Livestock Scales. We also handle other brands of farm supplies, cattle drinkers, electric fence products, electric fence chargers and electric fencing items. We sell electric fence chargers, solar chargers battery chargers, energizers, wire, netting, fence insulators, hardware, poliwire, politape, hi tensile wire, wildlife fence, horse fence, gates, electric fence tools, strainers, polirope, equibraid, reels, fence testers, grounding parts, solar panels, fencing materials, seed, equine items and farm supplies. Please ask if we can supply your farm or ranch with the things you need to be successful.
WE SHIP WORLDWIDE!!! International Customers, Please Email us for a shipping quote at sales@valleyfarmsupply.net
Please order online 24/7 or call VALLEY FARM SUPPLY at 717-786-0368 or email us at sales@valleyfarmsupply.net for help or advice.

 

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