2015 SOUTHEAST PA GRAZING CONFERENCE

When it comes time to fence your property to contain animals like horses, goats, cattle, and sheep, you’ll find yourself facing a number of difference fence types that you can choose from. While each fencing type offers different advantages and disadvantages, it’s important to consider the different needs of the types of animals that you will be using the fencing for. Different animals have different physical builds and different behavioral characteristics, so taking these into account will help you choose the right type of fence for each type of animal.

Horse Fencing

It seems that of all animals, horses are the most talented at injuring themselves, so safety should be a major priority when choosing the right type of fence for your horses. The horse is an active animal, and horses will run in their pastures, especially if they are kept in small herds. With their thin legs and quick reaction time, horses can easily end up in trouble if they are enclosed by a fence with limited visibility.

A fence that is used to enclose horses should be wide and easily visible to the horse when he is galloping. Horse fencing must be strong, such as wooden fencing, which is also highly visible, but fencing should also have some give to it to minimize injury if a horse runs into the fence (http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/freepubs/pdfs/ub037.pdf).

Electric fencing can be an ideal fencing when combined with the visibility of a vinyl top fence line or a wooden fence line. Using a “sight board” of solid, highly visible material can help avoid accidents and can deter horses from challenging a fence. Additionally, making sure that the fence is at least as high as the horse’s withers will help discourage jumping.

Barbed wire should absolutely be avoided when enclosing horses, since it is easy for a horse to become entangled. Once caught, barbed wire can shred a horse’s delicate skin and do serious damage. (http://www.horsechannel.com/horse-keeping/fencing-mistakes.aspx)

Goat Fencing

Selecting the right fence for enclosing goats proves a unique challenge due to the playful and curious nature of the animals. Goats chew, climb on, and dig under just about anything, so a fence must be strong enough, secure enough, and tall enough to keep them contained. Further, if you have different breeds of goats that grow to different sizes, you will need to make sure that the fencing you use is suitable for all of them.

Goats are known escape artists, and while a variety of fencing is available to keep them contained, electric fencing proves a popular choice. Electric fencing helps to keep predators out, while also keeping the goats in. To be effective, each strand of the electric fence must be carefully placed. Placing the strands too high will allow the goats to sneak under it, but placing the strands too low means the goats will step or jump over it. Using multi-strand electric fence, potentially combined with a wire net fence, is an effective barrier for goats (http://www.livingthecountrylife.com/buildings/fences/fencing-for-goats/).

Cattle Fencing

Cattle can be hard on fencing. They require strong fencing to keep them contained, but cattle also need large areas to roam, which means that the fencing must be cost-effective as well. When fencing cattle, the fence needs to be at least 60 inches tall.

Barbed wire and woven wire make popular cattle fencing due to their relative low cost and ease of installation. However, those fencing types require regular maintenance (https://utextension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB1541.pdf). High tensile electric fencing is also an excellent cattle fencing. The electric fence should consist of at least four strands, and such a fence costs less than a four-strand barbed wire or woven wire fence.

Sheep Fencing

While sheep don’t challenge fencing with the strength that a cow or horse can exert, it’s important to remember that sheep fencing must protect the sheep from predators. Fences should be at least 39 inches high to discourage climbing, though the exact height of the fence that you will need will depend on the height of the sheep that you are containing. Remember, too, that if you raise horned sheep, the fencing’s design should prevent the sheep from putting their heads through the fencing and getting stuck.

Woven wire fencing paired with a strand of electric wire fencing provides excellent containment for sheep while also preventing predators from breaking into the pasture. Since coyotes can fit through areas as small as 4 ½”, it is vital to construct sheep fencing carefully (http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/442/442-131/442-131.html).

When choosing the right fence for your animals, be sure to think about the animals’ physical traits, behaviors, and needs.

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By Paige Cerulli

Your electric fence will only be as effective as its charger. When it comes to selecting a charger for your fence, you will want to be sure to choose the charger that is best for your specific needs. There are some important factors to consider when choosing a charger for your fence.

Type of Power

When choosing a fence charger, you will first have to decide which power supply option is best for you. Fence chargers are available with three different power supplies: Plug-in units for 110V or 220V, battery powered chargers, and solar powered chargers.

• Plug-in chargers (AC) offer your fence a continuous source of power, and are typically the most cost-effective way to power your electric fence. Most fences can be powered with a 110V charger, though the 220V charger is also an option for powering larger fences that require significant power.

When using a plug-in charger, you will need access to an active electrical outlet. Depending on the location of your fence in relation to the barn, this may or may not be an option. You should also remember that if your electricity ever goes out, the fence will not be functional until it is restored. Investing in a generator may be a wise idea if you experience frequent power outages.

• Battery powered chargers (DC) can be a great option for fences when accessibility to an electrical outlet is not possible. Battery chargers and their required batteries are slightly more expensive, and the battery will also need to be replaced every 3 to 4 years.

Note: Here’s a great explanation of DC vs. AC power

• Solar powered chargers also require one or more batteries, and solar panels can be added to many battery powered chargers. For a solar charger to be effective, it must be located in an area that receives adequate sunlight. Solar chargers can be rendered less effective in the winter if your area receives heavy snowfall and if the skies are frequently overcast, so the charger may rely more heavily on battery power during such times. The Gallagher S17 is hands down the most popular charger we’ve ever sold alongside our electric fencing.

Resistance of Fencing Type

Different types of electrical fencing have different resistances, so this will affect the amount of power that your charger needs to supply. For instance, poly rope, poly wire, and poly tape all have a low resistance, meaning that they require less power, so a low impedance charger is suitable. If you are using wire fencing, steel wire has a higher resistance than aluminum wire, so a steel wire fence will require a stronger charger than an aluminum wire fence will need.

Total Length of Fence

You will need to make sure that the charger you select is strong enough to power the total length of your fence. To calculate your total fence length, measure the perimeter of the fence and then multiply it by the number of strands that your fence includes. To calculate the joule size that you will need in a charger, divide this total distance/length of your fence lines and divide it by 3. The resulting number is the minimum output joule size that a charger will need to produce to power the fence.

Types of Animals

Your needs for an electric fence charger will be very different if you are raising goats versus if you are raising cattle or horses. When selecting an electric fence charger, remember that larger animals require a stronger shock, and so will need a stronger charger. Additionally, if you are running a breeding operation or will be using your electric fencing to contain stallions, you may need an even stronger current than you would typically need for horses.

This chart can help you determine the typical voltages that are appropriate for different kinds of animals.

Future Plans

If there is a possibility that you might expand your pasture fencing in the future, it might be wisest to opt for a more powerful charger now. A stronger charger will be able to power a larger fence, but if you choose a weaker charger and then later expand your fence, you will need to buy a stronger charger to power it properly.

Taking the time to choose the right charger will pay off in the long run with a properly functioning fence that is strong enough to keep your animals contained and protected.

When buying horse fence, you will face many options. Each type of fence has its own set of advantages and disadvantages, from cost to safety to ease of installation. Here are 11 fencing type options that you may want to consider when buying fencing for your horses.

 HTP Rail

 HTP Rail, or High Tensile Polymer Rail, features high tensile steel wires that are polymer-coated. This unique design provides the fence with durability, strength, and a flexible finish to keep your horses safe. Cost: $0.58 /ft - $0.98 /ft (Single Rail)

Appearance: Available in a variety of colors, HTP Rail has the eye-catching appearance of wood without the maintenance hassle. HTP Rail is highly visible and provides a property with the classic, picturesque appearance of a traditional horse farm.

 Advantages: HTP Rail is more durable than wood and is virtually maintenance-free – it will not splinter, rust, or rot. Horses cannot crib on HTP Rail, and the rail withstands the expansion and contraction brought about by weather fluctuations. Because HTP Rail is designed as a single line of fencing, it absorbs impact without splintering and potentially injuring your horse, like wood can.

 Disadvantages: No fencing is completely maintenance-free, and HTP Rail does require occasional maintenance, but much less than you would encounter with a wooden fence. HTP Rail is available in a variety of different sizes with different break strengths, so you must be sure to choose a fence that is appropriate for your horses.

 HTP Line

 HTP (high tensile polymer) line is a high tensile steel wire that is coated in polymer. This polymer coating helps to prevent the line from cutting into a horse, while providing the line with flexible strength. (Check out Centaur's PolyPlus coated line) Cost: $0.11 /ft - $0.13 /ft (Single Line)

 Appearance: HTP line creates a sleek, minimal fencing appearance. This fencing will add a modern, sophisticated, and professional touch to any property.

 Advantages: Because HTP line is polymer coated, it is highly safe and will not cause cuts or abrasions. The fence doesn’t rust, stretch, or fade, and it is highly durable, even in harsh climates. HTP line is strong, and will work to keep horses in and predators out.

 Disadvantages: Because HTP line is thin, its visibility isn’t as great as that of a wider board fence. Coupling HTP line with a top line of easily visible fence can solve this issue.

 Hot-Coat HTP (Conductive Polymer Coating)

Hot-Coat HTP fencing features three galvanized high tensile steel wires that are coated in polymer. The Hot-Coat HTP conducts electricity, serving both as an electric fence and as a safe way to contain horses, due to the fence’s ability to absorb impact. (see Centaur's Hot Rail) Cost: Rails (Under $1 /ft) - Lines ($0.10 - $0.15 /ft) (single rail/line)

Appearance: Hot-Coat HTP offers an attractive, appealing appearance. Available in a variety of colors, this highly visible fence brings the look of a traditional horse farm to your property.

 Advantages: Hot-Coat HTP offers the same advantages as HTP Rail, in that this durable fence requires little maintenance, and it withstands weather-prompted expansions without splintering. Hot-Coat HTP is also a continuous line of fence, so it is able to absorb impact and avoid the splintering and injuries that can occur when a horse runs into a wooden fence. Additionally, Hot-Coat HTP offers the benefits of an electric fence, such as protecting your horses from predators and discouraging your horses from leaning on or through the fence.

 Disadvantages: Because Hot-Coat HTP incorporates electricity, its initial setup takes more time and materials than installing a more basic fence like HTP Rail does. Powering Hot-Coat HTP also results in a (slight) increase to your monthly electric bills.

 Bare Wire

 Bare wire is a single-strand wire that offers the protection of an electric fence at a low cost. Cost: $0.03 - $0.12 /ft (single wire)

 Appearance: Bare wire is not easily visible, due to its thin construction. Because of this it can provide an unobtrusive fencing system. When natural fence posts are used to support the bare wire, a fence can have a rustic appearance that would be right at home on a ranch.

 Advantages: The cost of bare wire is hard to beat. Installation is easy, and bare wire has excellent strength and a long life. Maintenance is simple to perform, and the electrified fence both prevents your horses from escaping while protecting them from outside predators.

 Disadvantages: Bare wire provides poor visibility, which can be a safety issue for horses. If you choose bare wire, consider keeping the fence posts closer together and using flags or electric tape to make the fencing more visible for your horse and decreases the risk that he could become tangled in the fence.

 Polymer Line

 Polymer line consists of only polymer (compared to HTP line, which is wire covered with polymer), creating a safe and lightweight fencing. Cost: $0.14 - $0.21 /ft (single line)

 Appearance: Polymer line has a neat, clean, and sleek appearance. The fence lines, smaller than traditional board fencing, add a modern and professional look to a property.

 Advantages: Polymer line is virtually maintenance-free, and doesn’t lose tension from -40 degrees F up through 122 degrees F. The fencing is lightweight, making installation easy, and its high break strength makes it an effective barrier. Best of all, Polymer line releases if a horse becomes entangled in the fence, a major safety advantage.

 Disadvantages: Because polymer line releases if a horse becomes tangled, it may not be the best choice for a perimeter fence, as it could result in loose animals.

 Wooden Rail

 Your classic horse fence, wooden rail fencing consists of wooden boards (typically 3 or 4 for horses), nailed into wooden fence posts. Post and rail wooden fencing, in which the fence rails are inserted into holes in the posts, is also used. Most wooden fencing is pine, since pine resists splintering. Cost: $3 - $9 per ft (multiple rails)
Appearance: Wooden rail fence tends to be the classic, picturesque fencing appearance that most horse owners desire. This fencing is versatile, in that it is visually suitable for a backyard barn or for a much larger multimillion-dollar equine facility.

 Advantages: Wooden rail fence is strong, creating a solid barrier between horse pastures and the surrounding area. Their beautiful appearance makes wooden rail fences a favored option when it comes to horse fencing. Wooden rail fencing can also add value to a property, and is the traditional choice for many barns.

 Disadvantages: Wooden rail fencing is expensive, and also requires regular ongoing maintenance. The fencing must be sanded, primed, and painted as it ages, and broken or splintered boards must be replaced. You should also always check wooden fencing regularly to be sure that nails haven’t worked loose and that the fence posts are still secure. Wooden fencing, while strong, can also splinter and injure a horse if the horse runs into the fence (http://myhorse.com/blogs/barns-farms-ranches/barns-fencing/wood-fencing-explained-by-cherry-hill%E2%80%99s-horsekeeping-on-a-small-acreage/).

 Vinyl Rail

 Vinyl rail, also referred to as PVC fence, consists of hollow rails that resemble traditional wooden rails. The rails snap into vinyl posts, making the fencing easy to install. Cost: $0.90 - $1.60 /ft (multiple rails)

 Appearance: Vinyl rail fence comes in a variety of colors and styles, so you can find the look that best suits your barn. Vinyl rail closely resembles wooden rail fencing, giving any property the classic appearance of a traditional horse farm.

 Advantages: Vinyl rail is virtually maintenance-free, and is highly durable. It is also very safe, since it is both visible and will give way under a strong impact. If a horse runs into the fencing, the vinyl rail fence will give without splintering, like a wooden fence would.

 Disadvantages: Vinyl rail is not indestructible, and rails can pop out of their fence posts if a horse leans against them heavily. It is recommended that you pair a strand of electric fencing with your vinyl rail fence to prevent your horses from leaning against the fence (http://www.livingthecountrylife.com/buildings/fences/vinyl-fencing/).

 Barbed Wire

 Barbed wire consists of a single or dual strand of wire with sharp barbs spaced every 4 to 5 inches. Barbed wire is designed to discourage animals from leaning against it, since the sharp barbs create a painful result. Cost: $0.03 - $0.05 /ft (single line)

 Appearance: Barbed wire has little visibility, and aside from the fence posts, it almost blends into the background. Barbed wire does have a rustic appearance, and looks right at home on a ranch.

 Advantages: Barbed wire provides a solid barrier and makes a popular fencing choice for cattle. Its low cost means that you can fence large areas for little cost when using barbed wire.

 Disadvantages: Barbed wire is not a safe fencing for horses. Its barbs can quickly tear into a horse’s thin skin, and if a horse becomes tangled in barbed wire, the injuries can be devastating. Barbed wire has little visibility, meaning that the chances that a horse will become entangled in the fence are higher. Additionally, barbed wire requires regular maintenance to keep the fence

No-Climb Fencing

No-climb fencing features a strong wire that is woven in a grid. The grid has small openings that prevent a horse’s hoof from becoming caught. The wire mesh creates a solid barrier and is run along a line of fence posts and a solid top fence line. This fencing is also referred to as woven wire, field fence, or diamond weave fence. Cost: $1.39 - $1.89 /ft (whole fence height)

 Appearance: No-climb fencing presents a clean and desirable appearance. The use of fence posts and a solid top fence line gives it a hint of the classic horse fencing appearance, while proper installation will result in straight, visually appearing fence lines.

 Advantages: No-climb fencing creates a solid barrier between your horse and the outside area. One major advantage of no-climb fencing is the fact that other animals, like dogs or coyotes, cannot easily access the pasture. No-climb fencing features a tight weave with openings small enough to prevent a horse’s hoof from getting caught, making this a safe fencing option for horses.

 Disadvantages: No-climb fencing requires regular maintenance and must be tightened seasonally to prevent gaps from forming. Additionally, you need to check the fence’s perimeter on a regular basis to make sure that trees are not growing into and warping the fence. Installing no-climb fencing over uneven terrain can be a challenge, and no-climb fencing is best for straight lines on flat land.

Tapes

 Electric tape, available in varying widths, is an alternative to the traditional electric wire fencing. Electric tape is made of poly fibers woven with metal strands that conduct electricity. Cost: $0.04 - $0.28 /ft (single tape)

 Appearance: Electric tape, strung tightly, creates an attractive and clean fence line. It is available in various widths, all of which have different visibilities.

 Advantages: Electric tape is more visible than traditional electric wire, which is a major advantage when you are using it to contain horses. It is easy to assemble, making it useful as both a temporary and semi-permanent fence. Electric tape will not rust, and is available in a number of different colors.

 Disadvantages: Electric tape with a thick width can suffer damage from heavy winds. If you live in an area with frequent heavy winds, using an electric braid is a better option (http://beefmagazine.com/pasture-range/choose-appropriate-electric-fence-wire).

 Braids

 Braided electric fence features metal conductors that efficiently transmit electricity, maximizing the power and reliability of an electric fence. Cost: $0.10 - $0.14 /ft (single braid)

 Appearance: Electric braids are available in a variety of different diameters, but they all have good visibility. A fence made with electric braids has a clean appearance. Electric braids are available in a number of different colors, so you can choose the one that works best with the appearance you want for your property.

 Advantages: Because the metal conductors that line the electric braids efficiently conduct electricity, the fence also distributes power more efficiently. This allows your fence to operate reliably, putting power to use without excessive wastage.

Disadvantages: While electric braid fencing is highly efficient, it does require an electricity supply to be effective, and will slightly increase your monthly electric bill.

Just which fencing type is right for you will depend on what you’re looking for in cost, appearance, and other factors like safety and ease of installation.

A helpful video about installing Gallagher Electric fence for a strong farm and ranch fencing system. Electric Fence is cheaper, faster and easier to install than other forms of farm fencing

This was orginally posted by www.fencerfixer.com

People will call or wire us asking which type of tester should I get? A regular digital fence tester or the fault finding type? Are they a gimmick or worth the extra money?

I usually say if you have over 10 or 20 acres of area fenced off, then go ahead and buy a good fault finding tester. If you have less than that, then purchasing a standard digital fence tester is fine. You can run around a 5 or less acre lot pretty quick if you test your fence and see the kv has dropped down by a bunch.

Where a fault finding tester comes in handy is on the bigger areas or smaller areas with a handful of cross fencing as well.

There been people that have been doing electric fence for 10 or 20 years and have never used a fault finding tester. Once they've bought one and understand how they work and how they're used, wonder where this little device has been.

The numbers used are just for example and generic for understanding.

There's an easy way to understand these testers. You're looking for HIGH Kv and LOW to NO amps. So let's say you've had a pretty clean fence and usually get around 7kv on the fence and hardly ever any amps, this is a single wire fence. But one day you test the fence and you are getting 3kv and 20amps. I believe all fault finding testers have arrows pointing on them in the direction of the fault.

You should always start first by testing the fence charger by itself to make sure it's not the issue. Then start testing near the beginning of the fence run if the fence charger is showing good.

20 amps, that's a pretty good short on the fence and you don't see any vegetation on the fence. Wyatt we say to do is test every so often watching the arrow. If the arrow keeps pointing down the line and us still up pretty high, then keep testing.

Eventually you'll come to a test spot and this is where a fault finding tester will do two things. It will either point the arrow in the other direction or you'll get no more reading and it'll say 0 amps and barely any kv reading. If it does either of these, you've gone past the fault and need to go between where you just tested and the previous spot.

Their fault could've been been a broken wire and touching ground, a handful of insulators are cracked from age and are allowing the wire to short out to ground, our there's an underground called that wasn't properly protected and it's leaving to ground.

There can be a bit more to it than that, but that's the simple way to use them. I think they're worth their weight in gold and they do a really good job at helping find shorts once you understand on how they're used.

If you have any questions or want to add you're input, please feel free to do so. We'll do our part to help understand and welcome any input.

An electric pulse (current) will travel from the energizer through the live (hot) wires. The

current flows through the animal at its contact point on the fence. The current then travels

into the ground and will seek a return path via the earth spikes back to the energizer. This

completes the electrical circuit and the animal is shocked. The circuit is completed almost

instantaneously.

The shock creates an unpleasant memory and thus a psychological barrier that most

animals recall very quickly and for a long period of time. Different animals require different

levels of shock or energy, the level is not based only on the size of the animal but also on

the temper and type of animal. Once the animal has been shocked chances are that it has

learnt its lesson and it will avoid the fence.

An electric fence does not have to be very robust but it must rather be visible to the animal

so that the animal can see it to avoid it.

Please email us or call us at 717-786-0368 if you have questions or need advice

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